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MG TD TF 1500 - My 1952 Pics - Comments & tips welcome
|Here is a link to my 1952 MG TD that I have started working on. Any tips comments hints or parts would be greatly appreciated.|
I've just finished reviving my BGT and this is next on the list. I'm sure these are some similarities and many differences.
I tired to get the pics in here in order of the unveiling but they did not download to Photobucket that way.
I hope the link works this time.
|Nice photo set.|
From here, it looks like the tub wood is in great shape. It also looks like you are heading to a complete frame up restoration. It only takes a week to disassemble one of these cars, you obviously have the digital documentation part down pat! I like to dissasemble and then attack components one at a time and store them as I clean, fix, paint and replace/ refurbish.
My suggestions, based on my experience.
The turn signals look to be an add-on, even though the switch appears correct, it is mounted on a home-made bracket. I would get the correct bracket. Since you need a new instrument panel (the center panel that goes in the fascia) you can find one with the center hole for the TS indicator light. That would necessatate a floor mounted dip switch as the switch handle for the panel mounted switch could be fouled by the light. Or you could hook up a 'buzzer' since the light is practically useless in the day time. I would put the relay and switch can on the interior side of the firewall.
The radiator tap has a busted handle. I was going to have a new handle fabricated because the replacement taps don't have the threaded portion which allows the drain tube to be installed. I had an 'accident' as I disassembled the tap, and ended up buying an original part on ebay instead. You will also need the drain tube. Let me know.
New Tires (lol)
Buy your interior in the fall. Moss has the best sales on at that time, for tops, tonneau covers and interiors.
New seat cushions and wood.
Rebuild the rear leaf springs. It is easy and satisfying. Takes a sandblaster, primer, latex based satin black paint, and a rubber kit. You may need to replace one or both of the locating pads which hold the shock arms. The new springs don't have the rubber kit, and don't disassemble. Not as much fun!
Your radiator shell will run you $1000 depending on how much prep work you can do yourself.
|Of course Vince, if you are just trying to get it going and enjoy it for a while first...|
I would go through each system, engine, fuel, water, electrical, steering, brakes and suspension and assure myself that nothing will let loose and strand me or send me into the path of oncoming traffic. Stopping is a big deal, this is a good time to remove, flush and rebuild the hydraulics. Check the brake shoes, a drum puller is needed for the fronts, usually.
If you plan to rebuild the steering rack, you could just 'grease it' and go with the correct 90w oil on rebuild.
I think you said previously that you had good oil pressure. If your compression is even close to even, you can start the car and enjoy it without doing much damage as long as you have good oil and good filtering. The filter needs all the parts in the canister to hold the filter element in place so the oil goes through the filter. The MGB catalog parts will fit.
I guess you will know a lot more after you get it started, if you haven't already.
|Yes I am going to get it going and drive it for awhile. The drain tap was broken when I got it and both it and the tube were in the tool box. I had the PO remove & drain for the cross country trip. I too was going to make a handle but will look for or accept a used one if there is one for the taking. For now any parts that are not essential to saftey will be replaced with whatever I can have donated tot he cause. The saftey items I will purchase new.|
Thanks for the springs tip. I have a list from when I got my BGT running and will use it as a starter list & modify and document as I go.
Remarkably the brakes are all new and so are the U joints. PO did them before it went to storage 17 years ago. I will still drain all the hydraulics, replace the rubber and have to rebuild the Cyls.
"..a drum puller is needed for the fronts, usually" Is this something that can be made or do I have to buy one? Any sources?
|For as often as you use a drum puller, you can rent one. We have a club member here who owns one, and I think it has been used on every T series in our club! Perhaps someone in your club has one as well.|
|I'll give that a shot. You would not happen to have the guage panel out of the car that you could trace on paper do you? I may want to fabricate one if I cannot locate a beat up used one. If not I will post another thread to see if there is one available.|
|I get a username/password page?|
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|Me too. Dave must know something we don't.|
|they want me to give info for college also.|
|Glad I'm not the only one who can't get past the first screen. Among other things, I'm anxious to see what Dave's talking about re: turn signal switch/light.|
|I wonder why it worked for him. I also emailed it to Bruce Cunha and it worked for him as Well.|
I'll try again.
|It did not work the first few times... I copy and pasted it in and it worked...|
|Some intersting pieces on that. As Dave said, the blinkers are non-original, but I think they add to the car. I would keep them if it were mine.|
What is that coil they have mounted? Wow.
Also looks like someone added an electric fuel pump. Leave that one also as it might be needed.
Vince what is the story on how a California Black Tag TD made it out to New York.
BTW, you have a three bow top. My top will not work.
|That is like looking at mine two years ago... bit rougher interior, but exterior about the same...|
Autosol on all the chrome got rid of all that white stuff...at least it saved re-chroming right away. My paint looked like that as well.... rubbing compound and a few dozen coats of wax..... 'wax on, wax off, wax on...'
|gblawson - TD#27667|
The gauge panel has close tolerance stamped holes with keyways to position the guages. It also has standoffs for the instrument lighting, a beaded edge, and square mounting holes for the carriage bolts. Much easier to hunt one down on ebay, I should think. Mine is already installed in my finished fascia (I got ahead of myself there).
Yepper, I cut and pasted the URL after it didn't work by clicking it. I was kinda wondering why I was the only one venturing an opinion!
|There is one on ebay right now....|
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|Yes I was wodering about that coil myself. THere was another coil in the tool box which is in the pics. It's a lucas and not sure if original and not sure how to test. I did purchase a new one. The fuel pump on the cowl is the other one that was came on the car. There were also a few others in the tool box of differnt makes. The PO told me that when they drove it for awile, it would stop running & you had to wait to restart. Tank on the car is not the original. Ugly but clean on the inside. They saved the original & gave it to me with the car. Paint is like the body but the inside has a lot of surface rust. All fuel lines are completely clogged. Pistons in carbs did not go up & down (since freed) floats were glued to the bottoms of the bowls (since freed) choke will not pull out. Not knowing how these carbs worked in comparrison to my BGT, I was careful when pulling on the arms. I pulled a bit more and I could see them start to come down so there is still a lot of gunk in those carbs.|
Body is in good shape and it has been wax on wax off for a week now. Fudge about the top Bruce.
Anyone eles with a used top or parts?
Interior is a bit ratty true but what I can tell most of it is the original. California sun must have baked it all to heck cause if you breath on it it tears.
Dash & underside was taken apart right after I got it to check all the wiring & lights. I saw one melted wire but everything worked. Gonna strip back the cloth to replace that one as all others are in great shape.
I still need to figure out why the signals do not work and replace the one on the passenger side. Not original yes but from the period and I think they are neat. I've seen them on ebay but keep missing them.
I'll tell the tale of how it got to NY later on today.
|Got it to work. I had to copy/paste the URL into IE. I normally use Netscape.|
|Outstanding photos and documentation! Presumably the original interior. Very valuable to document the trim behind the seat, including lift-the-dot studs and crank position on the seat back. Amazing that most of the wood visible looks really good. George|
|Yes and I should take more for those spots where people are not sure what went on 54 years ago. If there is an area you need, I'd be more than happy to document. |
I have more pictures posted since I first created this post.
Our TD is #18283, just 70 away from yours,, How many cars were made in a week back then ???
|Gordon might know. I think he has the running list or is that ttalk that has the list?|
|The lists on Ttalk (http://www.ttalk.info/car_lists.htm) wouldn't have that information. But --- from the Production Date lists in the NEMGTR Restoration Handbook it says that Car #17647 was made on June 4, 1952 and Car #18606 was made on June 25, 1952. 959 cars in June, 1952. That would put Steve's #18283 just about 2/3 of the way through the month. A 70 Car # diference would be about 2 days production.|
|18606 minus 17647 is 959. Does that mean the 17647 was the fist car & 18606 was the last car in the month? Were only 959 cars produced in 6/52?|
Taking into account that they might not work on Sat & Sun., and whether or not car #'s 17647 & 18606 were first & last cars on thier respective days, that's about 60 cars per day.
My car #18213 was built on Monday June 17th. somewhere between 11:00 & 12:00 am and Steve Wincze's #18283 on Tuesday June 18th, somewhere between 1:00 & 2:00pm, 1952.
|I have a copy of the gauge panel if you want it. It came out of a parts car I got last year. It is made out of stainless steel. I will also send along exact copy of the original on paper. The switch holes are a little different on the stainless copy but should work. I also have the air filters if you still need them. Just Email me if you want these items.|
garykrukoski at yahoo dot com We just got a 1950 RHD TD up and running earlier this summer for my son. The car was in similar condition to yours. I know exactly what you are going through.
|Vin, you're reading a bit more into it than reality would allow. Yes, 17647 is listed as the first car produced during July, 1952 (July 1st) and 18606 as the last (July 25th). Sorry about having said June instead of July. We also know that cars did not come off of the line in sequence.|
|Not to split hairs, but you have to subtract the first car of the month from the first car of the NEXT month to get the total... or 18607-17647 is 960 cars.|
If they were made in sequence, which they weren't.
|Did not know that they were not produced out of sequence, I may have but forgot. |
Wonder why & how this was?
I posted last night at about 2:00 am and did a quick calculation in an eXcel spreadsheet. There was one already there for July 1952 so I must have done this already. We then must have July cars. Close enough. I only threw the time & day stats in there 'cause there ain't much to do at 2:00am although I could have been out in the garage. Nah probably would hurt meself.
Gay send me your email address and we'll talk about the parts & patterns.
This thread was discussed between 25/09/2006 and 05/10/2006
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