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MG TD TF 1500 - Off Topic MGB gearbox swap

A friends dad has died. She would like to get his MGB running to keep as a memento. The car runs but the gearbox is shot.

Before I volunteer to swap it...

A big job? Engine out or not?

I know I could ask the MGB forum but I know you guys 😊

D Moore

I don't believe you can remove an MGB gearbox without removing the motor... the transmission tunnel is unitized to the chassis so it can't come out from above, the the underbody limits removal from below.

That being said, removal of the engine and gearbox as a unit isn't really that hard. Be sure to mark all hoses and wires and it will come out and go back fairly simply. Also, it gives you an opportunity to clean up the motor and engine compartment nicely, as well as sealing up any oil leaks easily.
Kevin McLemore

This is some of what I sent to a local earlier this year....There is more to it than just this but you get the general idea. This was an early 70's BGT and it's just general in description...but yes..the motor has to come out

you are doing a clutch only... get the car in the air and mark the position of the gear box's easy to try and put it back on 180 degrees off . So mark it front to back . Support the gear box with a floor jack. Drop the drive shaft, remove the speedo cable. disconnect the back up light wires, if it has overdrive disconnect those wires as well. drain the gearbox oil. remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing and wire it out of the way. Disconnect the starter wiring while you are there (after disconnecting the battery ground). Raise the bonnet. place some thick towels or blankets on top of the wiper arms, lay a thick blanket or towels across the full length of the top of the car front to back. Tie a small diameter rope to the hatch release and pull it over the top of the car, place another towel or blanket across the nose of the hood. pull the rope over he top of the hood. remove the upper bolt on the hood prop and lay it in the down position. Raise the hood as high as it will go until the bottom reaches the wiper arms. Tie the rope off on the bonnet front spring plunger. disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold... you will want to replace the two doughnut gaskets when it goes back together with new ones. pre soak those nuts with some penetrating oil for a few days before you attempt to remove them. Disconnect the wires at the alternator. disconnect the fuel line at the rear carb, the choke and accelerator cables. Disconnect the canistor vapor hose. Remove the heater hoses at the heater and plug them and clamp to make a seal ( I use a bolt close in size). Disconnect the oil line to the gauge ( I think his is a mechnical gauge...if it;s electric just disconnect the wire) If its a mechanical oil line...( flex hose running from the rear of the block to a connector on the bulk head) disconnect it at the connector and wrap it with something to try and contain the oil. Remove the bolts holding the oil cooler to the front valance. Remove the bolts holding the radiator surround panel to the body tub. I use a home made flat bar to raise the lump out so at this point I would remove the valve cover and place it over the valve cover studs and tighten it in place. It makes a good rigid lifting point...if they are tightened down. Remove the engine mount bolts...they will be a pain in the butt. Pay attention as there may be some thin shim plates between the frame mounts and the motor mounts. Raise the rear of the car... approximatley a foot.... maybe a liitle more. You will need to do this to allow the engine to clear the front cross member as the tail of the transmission drops down. Remove the entire radiator/oil cooler assembly along with the engine and gear box. Blankets over the front slam panel are also a very good idea along with fender covers. Once out you can seperate the gear box from the engine. Be sure to replace the throw out bearing.... not really a bearing... while you are there. Installation as the book says is the reverse. Be sure to fill the gearbox with oil. Access is from the inside of the car behind the radio ....pull back the carpet and you should see a rubber plug. Depending on the gear box there maybe a dip stick. Later models had a side fill that I do not have any experience with. The book calls for the box to use 20w 50 Castrol motor oil...which I use...he may prefer something else so you might ask. Hope this is of some help.
L E D LaVerne

Thanks LaVerne.

This sounds like about 4 days work to me - I am sure with experience a day - but the first time is always the longest.


D Moore

This thread was discussed between 27/12/2016 and 28/12/2016

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