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MG TD TF 1500 - Pulling out an MG TD Engine

Hi,

I am replacing my current engine in my mg td with the original rebuilt matching numbers engine. I am going to pull the engine and tranny out of the car in one piece in my garage, do the swap, and then return the engine and tranny back to the confines of the car.

Has anyone done this kind of procedure themselves? Is it easier to just pull the engine. Has anyone used the Moss engine bracket and the tilting lift? Other than the shop manual, is there some "how to" written information, DVD, website, etc., that can give me some guidance?

Thanks.

Larry


LE Becker

Larry,

The workshop manual (Section A.31) is pretty clear on the process. Follow it exactly and you won't have problems.

I install the carburetors after the engine is installed, so you might want to take them off first.

The gearbox top cover they reference is actually the gear change lever and housing, although I'm sure people have removed the unit without removing the gear change lever.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

I did it but had minimal help. I used my std cherry picker type hoise. I then made a couple of strap iron tabs that bolted to the head front and rear with chain between them. I don't trust picking up from the 2 top studs. I then connected the chain 'off center' to the hoist so it would pick up the front of the motor first. then eased the whole thing forward and raised. It really helped to have an extra set of hands to steady the motor/trans while it was being moved and lifted. That is all they did.
l rutt

the whole process is pretty straight forward. if you are unfamiliar with it, i suggest lots of digital pics as you follow the service manual.i made a lift bracket like the one moss sells. i attach my tilt lift to the bracket and use a standard cherry picker. i have had my engine out for various unrelated issues so many times that it almost removes itself. when removing as one unit, it is a little tight to slide in or out. i use cardboard pieces to protect the chassis and tub paint. regards, tom
tom peterson

Thanks for all the info. I'll add cardboard and probably some blankets on the fenders to protect them, and have a friend or two there to help out.

Larry
LE Becker

Larry.I took out my engine all by myself.
Made 2 brackets front and back of top.
remove the (loose) parts on the block.
remove the radiator, remove the front mounting bracket, and the rear remove the gear lever, ( 4 screws) from the gearbox, loosen the steering column in front and under the dash,.I have mounted a travers hoist in my garage. place the car under the hoist
and lift gradually as you push the car backwards easing the engine out without difficulties. If you don't have a hoist a couple of persons can lift out the engine by hand.
Thoralf Norway td4490
t g sorensen

I've removed the engine and gearbox as a unit, by myself, several times, with no great difficulty. I use the Moss bracket that fits onto the rocker assy. It works well; the important thing is to try to find the point in the chain that will put the power unit pretty much in balance. This is more important when you have to tilt it to get it back in. I've removed the gearbox, by itself, from inside the car, and it is not much less work than taking the whole mess out as a unit! In my opinion, removing either the engine or gearbox alone, puts the input shaft at risk, when one has to wiggle things around to get them to mesh back together-it is very awkward.
Steven Tobias

I have my engine out so many times that I lost count. I used the Obert Tilt that Moss sells and it works great. I pull just the engine, mainly because I hate unscrewing all the floorboards. I just pull the tunnel and remove all the bots from the tranny housing and pull it out. the tilt helps in both pulling and putting the engine in.
TRM Maine

Please make it easy by using two long studs screwed into the rear of the engine. I believe that they are 10mm. They will allow you to slide the engine right into the transmission without jiggling it in place. Then bolt it up and remove two studs which are then replaced by the mounting bolts. These studs are the same size as holds the valve cover in place.
Sandy
SANDY SANDERS

Remember to remove the clutch linkage to the pedal box, as well as the ground strap in the same area. Your hoist will still remove the engine with them in place, but you will need new ones. George
George Butz

These are some really good things to know. I'll be starting this around the first of the year, take some pictures and let you know how it progressed. Thanks for the info.

Here's a picture of the car it's going into. This is from this October at the Woodstock, NY, 2nd Annual British Car Show.

Larry

LE Becker

The studs Sandy refers to are 8mm x 1mm, just like the studs for the manifolds to head. In fact, that's what I use.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

larry, after seeing your picture i would say your car is too far gone to redeem her. i think you should just give her to me to dispose of. LOL! nice car and good luck. regards, tom
tom peterson

I have always used a rope sling, like the picture in the factory manual. The lift using the valve cover studs scares me- they are only 8mm, with real fine threads that are frequently worn/stretched. I like I Rutt's idea of straps/bolts in the front/rear of the head better. Of course change the clutch, front tranny seal, motor mounts, and anything else like that while the motor is out. The dreaded pedal box is also easier to work on as well. George
George Butz

George makes a good point, If there is any play in your pedals, now would be a better time to replace the bushings and clean out the grease in the shaft.

http://ctmgclub.homestead.com/files/event02/techmcn10.jpg

Had a problem uploading the picture,,,, cut and paste the link


SPW
Steve Wincze

OOOOH- Great sidetrack George/Steve! By all means, check the pedal bushings. LOL- possibly the worst job on the whole car, look how happy he looks under there. But made easier if the floors and other stuff is out, so all kidding aside, not a bad suggestion.

Some recent clutches have been giving problems, the Delphi seems fine. Consider checking the throwout bearing. If the carbon face is less than 1/8 inch, change it too. Of course, none of us rides the clutch pedal at a stop, nor rests our mitts on the gear shift lever... two areas prone to wear.

I use a sling like George does, but I couldn't find the ancient looking howser line shown in the workshop manual, so I fabricated one out of vinyl covered cable and four clamps. See image attached from my website. Steve, you might have had problems uploading a picture because it appears they increased the image side you can upload, and may have been doing a website revision.

warmly,
dave

Dave Braun

Thanks, guys.

This project, like all others is beginning to grow exponentially. But when the engine is out of the car, I guess it’s the right time to take advantage of the space created by its absence.

Larry
LE Becker

When removing my engine, we also had to disconnect the steering column and remove the (inside) nut and flange on the pinion shaft, otherwise there will be insufficient clearance for the oil pump when you lift, tilt and pull out the engine.

I also agree that once the engine is out, it's a great opportunity to check/fix all the seals, check out your oil pump, change all the fluids, do any repairs/cleanup of the engine cavity/firewall and do any engine detailing.
Phil Atrill

Phil,

You must have a LHD. The RHD can be pulled without disconnecting the steering column.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

This thread is being taped on my garage's bulletin’s board while I assemble tools, parts and friends for the project. Thanks again.

Larry
LE Becker

This thread was discussed between 24/11/2009 and 30/11/2009

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