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MG TD TF 1500 - Pulling the engine on my TD
|So we started this last night and had to stop around 9:30 when we realized it would not come out. One thing that made us stop was it would not pull forward realizing the shift lever was still in. I've pulled countless engines so I'll go back to me original credo of knocking off at 8:00pm. You get loopy after that.|
I'me reading an old BMC copy of "midget Series TD & TF Workshop manual" AKO 580A that came with the car. It states that I need to remove seats, remove floors, trans cover, steering column ..... to pull the engine.
Break it to me gently please. Is this correct? We've got all the known things out of the way and I thought that just the shift lever was in the way.
I have always pulled the engine separate from the trannie,,,,
Our car # is 18283,,, 70 cars after yours,,,,
|Yes, you have to take the shift lever out. You can do separately, but if the radiator and interior are out, no problem to do it in one piece. Make sure the ground strap, clutch linkages, and tranny to exhaust pipe mounts are removed.|
|I sure can't see why you'd have to pull the steering column. I didn't, but I pulled the tranny as well.|
|You can pull the engine without taking the floorboards up. You have to take out the tunnel cover and remove the gearshift extentsion and then pull engine and tranny if you wish. I have to unbolt the steering gear at teh front in order to clear the oil pump, it just makes it easier. There are only those 3 bolts that should be safety wired on to deal with and one under the dash and then the shaft pulls up out of the way. goes without saying that the radiator has to be pulled. I have had my engine in and out so many times over the last 3 years that I could do it in my sleep. I would not pull the tranny unless you are going to go over it.|
Was you oil filter still attached?
You can remove the engine and trans coupled together, you do not need to remove the floor boards or trans tunnel. You do need to remove the rubber surround on the trans tunnel and gear shift lever. There should be a ground strap between the trans and the left hand scuttle tower, remove this and all electric wires from the engine. Remove the sensor tube from the radiator and speedometer and tack cables. Don't forget to remove the clutch linkage The radiator needs to be removed and the engine steady. Unbolt the trans mount and engine mount. Remove the carbs, both manifolds and put a sling or heavy duty rope or suitable chain just in front of the rear carb, When you start to lift the engine and trans, the weight of the trans will make it tilt and drop down, when it is pulled from the motor mount and drops off the trans mount. Obliviously you need an engine lift or come along to do this and a helper is nice. One of the easy ways to remove the gearshift lever is; remove the sir clip spring retainer and outer cup and inner spring then spray the area with PB Blaster or some good lubricant. There are two pins holding the gear shift lever in place, these are peened over where they exit the remote control cover, take a demerel small wheel grinder and gently remove these. They may be punch marks. Take two small screwdrivers and insert them between the gear shift lever and the ends of the pins. Rock the gearshift lever from side to side and the pins should start to move out. You may need to add additional small bladed screw drivers? Hope this helps, John
|If you can't get the lever off, which was my case...just remove the remote shifter mechanism off the top of the transmission. Put it in 4th gear to do this. Then make a little cardboard cover to go on the transmission where the remote came off so you don't accidentally drop some crud in the gearbox. Mike|
|I unbolted the remote but I cannot get it off. It seems that the horizontal shaft that is inside of it, will not allow it to move backwards anymore.|
|Vince, if you read this over the weekend, send an e mail to me as your address is at my office. Cover- it should come off, try with it in neutral also, just wiggle it all around. If yours is one of the later cars with the support cap bolted to the underside of the aluminum housing I think those are a bit harder to remove. George|
|That cap was the ticket. As soon as I took them off, I was able to remove it. Posting pic on the Engine Pull thread.|
This thread was discussed between 18/02/2010 and 20/02/2010
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