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MG TD TF 1500 - Rear seal
During the season I lost 2nd gear, and am about to take out the gearbox to fix this.
My TDMKII leaks oil, as I assume most of these cars do if there is any oil in the sump, so I thought it was an upportunity to try to fix this leak at the same time, and consider getting hold of the Moss 433-421 conversion kit.
However, I've been told that this solution isn't always solving the problem, and considering the price I'm wondering if it is worth the efford?
Or is there a better way of dealing with the problem? Perhaps something from another supplier, preferably in Europe?
As always, thanks in advance
It appears that Moss has finally come up with an installation method that takes all the guesswork out of centering the oil seal around the crankshaft and if it's centered, the seal will work.
I suggest you go to the Moss site and download the instructions so you can see what is involved before you order the kit.
|Torben, i did the moss seal a few years ago..thousands of miles now and not a drop. i highly recommend this easily reversible conversion. although i do not see why you ever would want to go back. install the modern seal in the front as long as the engine will be apart. also you might as well inspect and replace as necessary the clutch as well...including throw out bearing and pilot bushing. regards, tom|
|Torben, After line boring the block, to bring the bearing clearance down to .001", & hand fitting the existing oil thrower, ( it will have an interference fit after line boring), I have no oil leaks.|
It did take a few fittings of the sump, before all leaks were gone!
Do not use the Moss front seal, use the thinner one,
( a Volvo cam bearing seal) which is noted the archives
|R&L Machine does as Len does and gets the oil leak down to just drops.|
I don't think Torben has an overhaul in mind though and is looking just to stop the leak. The Moss seal has mixed reports but it seems they have improved it and developed a centering tool for better installation. I have the seal but with test time only. So far, no leak, but until is has some road time I won't call it a success, just promising.
|Hello Torben. I've run a Moss seal many years. The first one lasted about 5 years until I did a hill climband floated the valves the rpm was too high for the seal to handle and the lip burnt. I changed it and was back to no leaks. Later in a spare engine I put one in and found that the surface of the crankshaft flange was machined rough. Also that crank had a chamfer on the back side that prevented the seal lip having any surface to ride, on just air. What I did was put on a Speedi-sleeve and hang part of it off the back of the of the flange and let it hang out far enough to provide a sealing surface for the seal to ride on. I think that a lot of the problems that people have had is due to the crank flange never being designed to have a seal riding on it so the finish where the seal rides is too rough and quickly eats up the seal. The reference manual for the seals specifies a 10 - 20 micro inch RA finish. I have yet to see a crank flange with that kind of finish. And I've had my car since 63. If you ever get a chance compare the finish of the crank flange of the T series to the finish of the later models A, B, midget.|
I suggest you search the archives, including my own posts, prior to embarking on this fix.
It appears no two XPAG engines have the same dimensions in this area which will facilitate a full running surface for the Moss seal.
There are better options however you will need to pull the engine and have full machine shop facilities available.
|I installed the Moss seal and unfortunately it leaks like crazy, but I'm not giving up hope on the design. I suspect that something must not be centered. Like Butch, I also had to hang my speedi-sleeve off the back because the crank was chamfered.|
The Moss front seal has been wonderful, and was pretty easy to install. Not a drop there.
This thread was discussed between 07/12/2013 and 08/12/2013
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