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MG TD TF 1500 - Rear spring bushes

Now that I have removed the gas tank and am going to have to replace the rear top rail, I notice I have a very accessable rear spring bushes. Is replacing them a straight forward job not requiring any special tools?
Is it worth the extra cost to go with the URETHANE bushes or is it sufficient to stick with the rubber ones ($50 vs $11).
Greg & Grimm
G.J. Cenzer

I yhink the urethane bushes give a much stiffer ride. It is already stiff enough with rubber. "If you run over a leaf you can count the ribs." Anonymus
Don Harmer

Greg
If you need to replace the rear rubbers have a look also at the front spring mounting. If this also needs replacing it is easiest if you remove the spring completely as you may need to use large hammer to remove the silentbloc bush
Mick Cook
52 TD
M.J Cook 1

Shackle bushings easy to change unless the pin twists off removing the nut. You have to loosen the rear fender for clearance I think. Post above right on-front will be shot. Change all rubber parts- leaf pads, seating pads, etc., u-boltsexamine for wear/stretch, wear into axle case, need plate to fix). "While you are at it"-sounds like you are on the way to frame-off restoration- it can happen. Rubber will last for years.
George Butz

So far all but one nut comes loose with out turning the stud. One little bugger (lower left) turns the stud. But my big question is 'does it require special tools' or is it relatively straight forward. I haven't done any rear spring stuuf on a TD since 1963 and so I can't remember. I remember how to do front susp. stuff because I did some on an MGBGT and midget for my son's cars in late '70's early '80's. I guess I'm looking for some suggestions on where to put the jack stands,what to remove first, second, third,etc shop manual doesn't really address it. I guess (I guess I guess a lot in O/A)I'm getting spoiled by all the wealth of knowledge/experience is available here and so I ask instead of charging ahead like a bull in a MG shop as I did in the past.
Greg & Grimm
G.J. Cenzer

Greg
Suggest you support the rear end on axle stands on the chassis just in front of the front spring hanger then you can use a jack under the centre of the spring to take the weight as you remove the bolts, allow the axle to rest in the stop. No special tools needed. Whatever you do do not use lubricant on the new rubbers to get them to fit. I've just replaced all of mine, took just half a day to do both sides. Good luck.
Mick Cook
52 TD
M.J Cook 1

Thanks Mick.
Jacked Her up today and gonna tackle it. New ? my U-bolts extend down 1 & 1/2 inches below the nut. This seems a bit of alot. Maybe I should replace the U-bolts whilst at it.
Greg & Grimm
52 TD 65 BSA
G.J. Cenzer

Greg =

Chec that your U bolts are threaded long enough so that when you tighted the nuts you are tightening the U bolts. Found on my TD that the nuts would appear tight. but had run out of thread on the U bolt.

Jan
Janson Hurd

This thread was discussed between 17/09/2004 and 20/09/2004

MG TD TF 1500 index

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