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MG TD TF 1500 - Replacing TD Floorboards Follow Up
|Thanks for all the great info.. It seems that most people think that keeping the footwell is the way to go. I just checked and the guy I bought the car from has purchased the full interior kit i.e. carpet etc.. And it has the footwell pad and cut out. My issue is mostly the condition of the existing steel footwell – It is very rusted and one edge is falling apart. By the time I clean it up and if it can be repaired I am getting close to the $80 cost of a replacement. I had an alternate thought though.. The steel footwell when installed sits about 1/8 inch below the floorboard – I could get a piece of sheet metal and mount it with a gasket from the bottom and the net result from the top would be the same (have to make clearance is on bottom).. Will be looking into that as I cut the new floorboard this weekend.. Thanks again Scott|
On all the cars I have ever seen the foot well sit down in the plywood cutout of the floorboard, not underneath the floor board. It is attached to the foot well with wood screws. That could be why it is all rusted out! I could be wrong and I'm sure some one will correct me on this. Roger
|roger, scott is saying as an alternative...it would not be as original, but as an alternative to fixing his footwell or buying a replacement footwell, he could mount a piece of sheetmetal underneath the floorboards using a gasket as a spacer and end up with the same depth drop in his footwell as original. he is just looking at alternatives to save some cash. tom|
|Scott and Rodger,|
The footwell is typically installed with the mounting flange above the floorboard. The split rivet thing is nice, and allows removal of the footwell for working on the MC, but would be a bit 'putsey' to remove and install. My footwell was held in by woodscrews, which of course, wore out the wood, so eventually my footwell was secured only by gravity and carpet weight. That acutally worked quite well.
The floorboards are interesting because the forward edge have a slight chamfer to them to match the firewall. There are also several funny cutouts and hardware attachement points. I considered creating my own, but found it simpler to purchase them from Craig Seabrook.
|I should also have mentioned that the footwell is interesting as it has a crease to channel moisture (spilled brake fluid as well) to a small hole. The lads at the factory were quite attentive to detail, even though they never got around to designing cup holders.|
|Don't forget the inspection hole for master cylinder!|
Greg & Grimm
My Moss footwell has about a 2" hole the sits right over the master cylinder. (I believe my rusted original did too.) There is a rubber plug that you remove to fill the master cylinder.
|Evan Ford - TD 27621|
|As an alternative to the wood screws that hold the metal pan to the floor boards, one could always use "T" nuts attached to the underside of the floor boards. Also as a tip, (for those who have not discovered it) the master cylinder cap can be loosened quite easily by using a spark plug wrench.|
|George R Herschell|
I have an original footwell, with the crease, the small hole, the larger hole and the rubber plug. But since the whole thing would come out anyway, I always removed it to work on or fill the MC.
Email me for a photolink.
This thread was discussed between 28/10/2005 and 29/10/2005
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