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MG TD TF 1500 - Starter rebuild

My starter has what seems to me to be excessive play in the shaft. Both fore/aft and up/down. How much play is normal, if any? I want to break it down to inspect/replace the brushes. Is replacing the bushings (2 I believe) a straight forward job? There isn't much in the archives on rebuilding starters. I was hoping to find an old article similar to the generator rebuild. Thanks
Mark Butler

I'm sure you have found in the archives that an MG midget starter available from your FLAPS works fine.

Steve Wincze

Mark -

Can't help you with first-hand experience, but here are some manuals that may help ...

> Lucas Overseas Technical Correspondence Course: Section 2 - Starter Motors

> Lucas Starting Motors (Section N)

> Lucas Electrical Equipment for Cars and Light Commercial Vehicles, Maintenance Instructions and General Information
(you will need to register and search to find the download)

> Maintenance Instructions for Lucas Electrical Equipment
(early publication, but kinda neat)

LM Cook

It is really easy to change the bushings and brushes. The bushing nearest the Bendix gear will cause the symptoms you mention. The bushing should be soaked in engine oil for a day or so before installation.
D. Sander

Bushings easy, brushes not so simple. There should be a spacer washer that controls fore/aft movement. I recently repaired/rebuilt a couple spare starters with various parts and pieces. Some of the new brush kits have the correct attached plates that rivet under the brush holders (better and easier), some do not. To change the two brushes from the field windings (successfully), I had to remove the Phillips screws, remove the pole shoes/windings, cut and solder to the old copper wire near the coils, and tape/insulate, etc. I think at factory the brushes are spot welded to the aluminum field coil windings which we can't do. Much harder than on the generator, but both of mine ended up working. George
George Butz

"The bushing should be soaked in engine oil for a day or so before installation. "
The above soak can be reduced to about 10 seconds per bushing. Set one end of the bushing on one thumb, fill the busing with oil until it brims over the open end, place your other thumb (being double jointed helps here, but it can be done) and press your thumbs together and hold until you see oil oozing through the sides of the bushing (not more than 10 seconds). Viola! a 24 hour soak in less than a minute. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

Thanks guys. I started to try and dismantle the the starter and found that the bushing in the end plate is gone. The hole where the bushing was is now out of round. That's the first issue. The second problem I have is removing the barrel/pinion from the shaft. It slides freely but seems to be hitting something on the way off. The WSM doesn't address this. Any ideas how to get the barrel/pinion off?
Mark Butler

Hi Mark,
2 yrs ago I bought a starter from Rock Auto, at a very reasonable price. Can't remember if it was new or rebuilt, and the core charge was so low I just kept my old one for future use. Give them a try, they have lots of that sort of thing for British cars.
54 TF "Emma"
A W Parker

I think I good to go. I used a gear puller to get the barrel/pinion off. It slid off easily once started. And my out of round bushing hole was a mistake on my part. The casting and position of the hole made it appear out of whack. Now to address the brushes.
Thanks to all
Mark Butler

George- as you have rebuilt a couple of starters maybe you can help with what I hope to be my final question regarding the starter. (I said that before). Brushes are are all in, bushings changed. I'm pretty sure I'm not missing any pieces as I extremely careful in that regard. Upon assembly and snugging of the two long bolts that hold the end pieces the armature binds. If loosened a few turns everything spins nicely. There is no interference with the new bushings. I'm stumped... and frustrated to say the least. Ideas? thanks
Mark Butler

Things to try: Make sure that the pole pieces are not rubbing/binding (the metal deals that hold the field coils in), as I had issues with that. Try tapping each end of the armature with a hammer a couple times to make sure something is just not seating or something. If there is the raised "dot" on the end plate (I forgot which one, likely the gear end) make sure it is in the notch in the case and not 180 out, that would cause binding. There should be a bit of end play in the armature. If not, if there is a spacer washer at one end of the armature, remove it and see if the bind goes away. If it does, try a thinner washer. This could have happened if a bushing sticks out just a bit from the end plate. Hope that helps. George
George Butz

Mark, Rock Auto has a starter for my 55 TF. That being the case, I would assume they are the same for a TD. Around $60.00 without core. Core rebate $9.00. I think I got those figures right? PJ
Paul S Jennings

I just checked on the price, which I was close and while doing so, I discovered they only have three starters left. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Hi Mark & PJ,
I bought a starter for our TF from Rock Auto about 3 yrs ago. It's worked just fine since. Price was about as PJ says, and I paid the core charge and kept my old one, figured it was worth $9 if ever needed for a rebuild in the future. (local rebuild shops disappeared about 3-1/2yrs ago.)
just FWIW,
54 TF "Emma"
A W Parker

This thread was discussed between 29/06/2014 and 15/07/2014

MG TD TF 1500 index

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