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MG TD TF 1500 - Starting Problem

I have a TF 1500 which wasn't runnning at revs above 3000 and seemed to be missing from time to time. I removed the plugs (which looked pretty bad)wired brushed and then reinstalled. Car started right up, reved above 3500 and ran great. Two hours later, tried to start and it wont fire up. fuel pump clicking, engine starter turning but no ignition. Replaced the old plugs with new ones and the result is the same. Appreciate any hints as I am an amateur learning on the fly.
Thanks
TJM Moylan

Plug wireing is a little tricky aroun the tach drive...make sure your not shorting out on it. Since you just plulled the plugs made that's the problem?
Pull a plug and short to engine to check for good spark also.
David Sheward

what changed from the last time it ran well? more info would be helpful in us helping you. regards, tom
tom peterson

I would pull the distibutor cap, clean & reset points, set it back on the timing mark (not sure it is the same as TDs 0 degrees), clean the cap thoroughly, inside & out and doublecheck firing order. Sometimes I'll clip a timing light on each plug wire to observe consistency.

If ignition isn't the problem, come on bck for more free advice.



jrn Northrup

Lots of bad rotors out there- change that. Since cleaning plugs once helped, that may be problem? Try new plugs first. Where are you in Florida? George
George Butz

Remember...when one thing goes wrong on these things, the odds are that there is something else wrong..and although it will be simple, it will tax your very being trying to figure it out?
gblawson

Thanks for the suggestions. I changed the plugs again; checked all connections - no success. Removed the distributor cap, and pieces fell out. The plastic molding which holds the carbon brush has a side broken off. Not sure what caused the crack - maybe poor manufacturing quality. Just ordered another from Moss. Hopefully solves the problem.
Happy New Year to all.
Tim Moylan

This thing happens to me.... clean the plugs and the distributor cap breaks....just isn't fair!
gblawson

Inspect your new cap very closley for cracks when it gets there....been a lot of faulty Tiwian made caps lately. Hair-line cracks so really give a good inspection before you put it on.
Cheers,
David
David Sheward

Lets try this again,,, look for a Massy Furgeson Tractor dealer,,, the caps are supposed to be the same... (and better made)

SPW
Steve Wincze

Tim
You can also order them through NAPA, if you can get the counter person to look them up? Moss is supposed to have a bunch of defective ones; I suppose they will sell them until they are all gone. John
John Hambleton

Massey made a LOT of different tractors. Any chane you'd have a specific model to order for?

And I will try NAPA myself here shortly, although my cap has been ok, won't hurt to have a spare on hand.
l rutt

A badly wobbling distributor shaft has been known to crack distributor caps and cause havoc.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

The new distributor cap solved the starting problem but the idle is now very low; red light on unless I give it some gas; car will stall if left for a couple of minutes. I checked the cap again to make sure the leads were set and also pulled the plugs. Plug 3 and 4 very black and sooty. Also there is a strong gas smell after shutting off the engine. Next steps?
Tim Moylan

Double check you don't have 3 & 4 plug wires switched. It can idle on just 2 cyls, and yeild the low idle/stalling symptoms described.

If they are correct, try the following-->

Take a hammer and smack your rear carb! I take that back! Don't use a hammer, but you might tap the float gently or check it for sticking needle.

Instead of dismantling float, try disconnecting the fuel pump wire right above that carb, and start the engine. Let it run until it starts to starve for fuel, then touch the fuel pump wire to the terminal and run in some gas, and now you might tap the float gently.

It could be just one of those transients and not come back to haunt you for a while, let's hope.

jrn Northrup

When faced with a poorly running car I advise the following:

Breathing
Fire
Fuel

Make sure each step is satisfactory before proceding to the next.

Breathing: Check compression, plugs out, carb wide open, six strokes of the engine on each cylinder. They should be all within 10% of each other, and ideally 130 psi or more. Set the valves cold. Go .001 over the hot setting... or just be like John Twist and set every MG no matter what year or type to .015 lash.

Fire: Verify condition of sparkplugs. Buy new ones, as scratched up insulators from wire brushing will be a problem. Set to .025 gap. Install. Verify Top Dead Center on the first cylinder (from the front) on the compression stroke, and once found, time the ignition there with a bulb. Make sure the rotor is tight clockwise. Assure the advance weights will move. It will always start at TDC, and with a great distributor will run at 11-14 BTDC. Verify firing order, 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise around distributor cap. Make sure your points are gapped at .015 and the dwell is about 60 degrees. A faulty condensor is hard to detect, but your spark should readily jump a quarter inch in ambient condions.

Fuel: Set the floats so the fuel in the carbs is .160 below the bridge with a dial caliper. Very rich running can occur with poorly matched pistons and dashpot assemblies, so you may want to plug the vent holes and do a drop test. Rearrange them until they drop evenly as possible. Make sure the pistons move freely in the suction chambers and both needles are tight in their mounts. On fast idle, balance the airflow between both carbs, and then set the mixtures for fastest idle, starting at 800 RPM and bringing it down as needed. Alternatively, set the mixtures by setting the jets .070 below the bridge using a dial caliper.

Reset the timing to as advanced at idle as possible without pinging on acceleration.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Sonething simple to check: grab the choke lever at the bottom of the carb and really push it foreward to make sure the jet is returning when the choke is clear in. I can't remember how easy to see on a TF, but if needed, use a mirror to make sure the jet head comes clear up against the adjusting nut when the choke is in all the way.
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 26/12/2009 and 01/01/2010

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.