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MG TD TF 1500 - SU help, I'm fading fast
|Well I have been trying to start my rebuilt engine for the first time but it just won't. I am pretty sure no fuel is getting to the cylinders. I rebuilt the SU's myself using the purchased DVD instructional. It all seemed to go well but I must have done something wrong. We moved lots of items here and I have been unable to find the DVD to look through it again to see what I might have done, I must not understand the working of the unit. I don't see anything making the piston move up and down, does it move at all? I assumed with the needle jet attached that it did. The fuel bowls are full and the fuel pump is working perfectly and I do have spark and oil pressure. It turns over but never tries to start. I am very frustrated and want it to run so badly but I just about feel beaten. Thought I could drive it by the end of the summer but now I just don't know.|
Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
|Rob, do you see fuel in the jet if you pull out the piston/needle? Bud|
|It is a guess, but basaed on recent experience; check the distributor is not out by 180deg!|
|Rob - it's probably NOT your carbs - if you have fuel in the float bowls and you can lift the piston with your finger, you are getting fuel. The carb piston moves up and down when the car is running; static you will see nothing. My guess is also a dizzie problem. Did you check to be sure the engine was on the compression stroke when you lined up the timing mark? It's easy to do that 180 degrees out, at the beginning of the inlet stroke. simply turn the engine one complete revolution to line up the timing mark, check to be sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire, and it should go.|
|You can also put a squirt of carb cleaner in each carb, it will should briefly start and run off of that if ignition good. George|
|Did you center the jets? If not they may be binding and preventing the piston from moving. I know about this from personal experience. :-)|
|Rob, where in Texas are you? Sounds like you need some hands on assistance. I might not be able to get to you, but I might be able to refer you to someone who can.|
Go to my website, http://www.dbraun99.com and download the instructions i wrote on tuning your SU carburetors. It may help.
I live in Fort Worth. All others, I actually did spray the starter fluid into the carbs and actually directly into each cylinder but it never even slightly got a bump. I took the valve cover off and watched the exhaust valve close and the intake start to open on the number one cylinder and the distributor was pointing at the number one plug so I really think the Dizzy is correctly placed but then again not even the slightest bit of a start. I obviously have something wrong. I see spark from the coil but it is really old. Is it possible it just is not hot enough? I probably need to start all over this weekend and find my problem. Thepainter said my body should be ready next Monday. I think everyone at work may have heard me squeal like a girl.
Thank you everyone,
|Rob, When seven and eight are rocking you should be firing on one. This will get you close enough for the engine to run. I think your dizzy is 180 off.|
|Exhaust is closing near piston top dead center, with the cylinder empty at top, intake opens and then cyl. fills with mixture to BDC, then compression/spark at TDC. Tom is correct. George|
|Easy enough to check, swap the leads 180 degrees each. Firing order is 1342 counter clockwise rotation.|
|Rob, yes, your distributor is installed 180 deg off. No. 4 cylinder rocker arms should be moving when no. 1 cylinder is ready to fire. Also note that the distributor will rotate about 30 degrees clockwise as you slide the distribuor shaft driven gear onto the engine drive gear during assembly. The rotor must point to no. 1 cylinder after this rotattion occurs.|
|Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169|
I will swap the leads tonight or tomorrow and give it a go.
I was all excited about trying to start the car with the dizzy rotated but it looks like I may have killed my starter with all the previous attempts. I appear to be batting a thousand. Looks like it will be another few days.
I'm too far away to be of any help. Contact the Texas MG Register at tmgr.org and see if there is someone local that is willing to help. Reed Yates is in Southlake, for example. He is a great guy and has a life-long experience with MG's and SU's. I'm sure he'd be glad to help you out if he has the time.
If you did in fact kill your starter,, don't spend a lot for a TD starter,,, instead get a rebuilt starter for an MG midget,,,, a lot less expensive!!!
don't worry. There are many reasons why your engine don't start. Did you connect the distributor with the sparks in the right way? 1-3-4-2 anti clockwise!
Once I had a mistake in the finger rotor) of the disdributor. It had contact to earth. Check if there spark plugs work.
|Well I bought a new starter from moss but all it does is spin it won't engage the flywheel. The couple of times it tried it just stopped. I must have done something bad to this car when I was a child because I am sure it hates me. I am about ready to drop the car off anywhere I can find and surrender!|
|Rob , drop it of to my place if you sick and tired of it.LOL,|
|Most common reason is low voltage- it won't spin up quickly enough to spin the drive out. Did you test it before you put it on? Pop it back off, and test w/ jumper cables and a known good battery. If good off the car, must be bad battery, ground, cable, or starter switch. George|
|Don't give up - it's just a matter of tracking down the small faults - the Devil is indeed in the details.|
Charge up your battery first; George is absolutely right. If that doesn't work, remove the starter (sorry) and try to engage the pinion by hand. If the pinion comes out stiffly, put a dab of grease on the shaft where the pinion pulls out, and twist the pinion in and out a few times to make sure it moves smoothly.
|Signs of life!!! |
Well it looks like I never had the new starter properly grounded. It was grounded same as the old starter but I suppose the new one expects more of me. The engine tried to start a couple of times but it is late so I will try again over the next couple of days. I think I will start by resetting the distributor properly, checking the points, and making sure the valves are correctly adjusted and I will give it another try. I will try and be less of a crybaby in the future....Well maybe......OK, no one hold your breath.
|Rob, do you have the ground strap that goes between the frame (at the left tower) and the bellhousing? Bud|
Yes sir. I actually have it attached to the firewall tower support. I assumed the bolt threading through the frame was fine but I suppose there is just to much paint there. Worked fine for the old starter but not the new. Looks like the body will be at the painters another three weeks, and all though disappointing, gives me more time with engine issues.
A friend on ours had a freshly painted TD,,, sometimse the starter wroked, and sometimes it didn't,,, we traced it down to the ground strap that goes right from the battery to the bracket next to the battery,,, too much paint ,, we put on a star lock washer there which "dug" through the paint, and it has been good ever since,, ,,,
This thread was discussed between 05/05/2013 and 24/05/2013
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