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MG TD TF 1500 - SU Rebuild
Looking for secrets on seperating the diaphragm from the base and housing of what looks to be an original SU fuel pump.
For the replacement points, is Moss reliable? Better yet, who in the US sells rebuild kits for them?
|RM - Since this is on the T series list, I assume that you have a L type, low pressure pump for a TC, TD, or TF early (54) TF or the later L type high pressure pump used on the TF 1500. To determine what kind of pump you have, see the diagrams in the article SU Fuel Pumps 101 at: http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/dd_su_fuel_pumps_101.htm
To get the coil housing/diaphragm separated from the sandwich plate, it is often necessary to use a knife blade or a putty knife with the blade sharpened driven between the the two items. This will destroy the diaphragm, but that will need to be replaced anyway. The same method is used to seperate the sandwich plate and the pump body. As for points, Moss and the other suppliers in the US supply an aftermarket points set that don't work as well as the original points that are available from Burlen Fuel Systems (the maker of all things SU) in England. The points set that they supply are rather pricy at around $16 each, but they work much better than the aftermarket units. See their web site at: http://www.burlen.co.uk/ Burlen Fuel Systems also supply repair kits for the pumps. The part number for the low pressure pump is EPK 700. E-mail me direct for any specific questions that you have on rebuilding the pump or for pump identification. Cheers - Dave
|Hey Dave, I'm going to have to do something with my pump. I filed the points and it now clicks right along and keeps the carbs happy but the pump body is seeping a little at the diaphram. So should I just bite the bullit and replace the 52 year old pump or should I rebuild her and if I do should I expect it to last as long as a new replacement? Reliability not dollars is the highest priority.
|Pumps are really quite easy to rebuild.
The only caution is when disassembling, be careful to do it over a tray or something that will catch the little "nickels" that will pop out.
Re-assemble too, is quite easy, only this time its a bit tricky to get the nickels back in.
Follow the WSM to make adjustments and ... Bob's you uncle.
Dave duBois gives good advoce. Be sure you get the Burlen kits. Just not worth going cheeeep!
|Gordon A. Clark
|Bob's you uncle???
|LaVern - If done right, a rebuilt pump shoud give yyou another 75,000 - 100,000 miles, even with points in it> if you go with Burlen Fuel Systems Hall effect circuit, it should last just about forever. I would suggest getting the repair kit from Burlen Fuel (I don't know if the its are available from any of the suppliers over here. The Hall effect kit is rather pricy and you could probably get a new all elelctonic pump for the same price of putting in the mod kit plus new diahragm, volute spring, valve disks, filter and gaskets. If you decide to tackle it yourself, let me know and I'll send you reassembly and adjustment instructions. The other alternative, if you can wait until after the first of October is to send the pump to me for restoration and conversion to solid state. I'm not doing any pumps this summer so I can catch up on home projects that didn't get done last summer. Cheers - Dave
Only one opinion out of many - Cheers - - Alec
Replacement points are on the way and I'll need to get a diaphragm too. Hopefully it will then work, though I still need to get the funny "nickels" back in.
Trying to do the odds and ends while waiting for the block to come back from Magnaflux land.
This thread was discussed between 24/07/2006 and 25/07/2006
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