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MG TD TF 1500 - Suggested Locations for Adding In Line Fuses

After my recent ( but eventually successful ) experience of installing indicators while blowing fuses and a flasher unit I was thinking I should probably add some in line fuses.

I have added them to my new indicators. 20 Amps (probably too high but that was the only ones I could get locally)

Where else should I add them - and what Amp fuses should I use ?

I have no radio or heater. The car is stock except for the new indicators.

Thanks.


Dave

MG TF 1500 1955
D Moore

Dave,
There is an article in Bud's TTalk web site about fusing the T series. I used it as a guide line and now have about 16 additional fuses in a fuse block under the dash behind the tool box.
The article is by Evan Ford
http://tseriesmg.blogspot.com/
Mort
Mort 50 TD (Mobius)

From Jim Merz: http://www.ttalk.info/MerzWiring.jpg Bud
Bud Krueger

Bud, I thought I had the headlamps on a fuse since the horns were originally fused. Fusing confusion. I'll have to eyeball under the instrument panel to see what the heck I did back when. Hang loose.
Jim Merz

Dave,
IMHO: It depends a lot on what shape your wiring harness is in.
When I acquired my TF much of the harness had been cut & butt spliced back together with multi colored connectors/wire that looked like they had been crimped on with a rock by DPO.
My first thought was to replace the entire harness.
To my surprise, once I started cutting the old harness back and removing the bad connections that had corroded due to improper installation, I found the bulk of the harness was in good shape.

I set about replacing sections of the harness making "home-runs" so that most of my splices were "inside" the car where they would not be exposed to the elements. I used a black nylon webbing that I feel has a "period look". All connections being made with gold LUCAS BULLETS CONNECTORS, soldier type, I found here:
http://www.triple-c.com/
(A very good source for electrical parts, (including fuse blocks) at very good prices.

I had a good selection of fuse blocks already...and for me the best place was under my dash as I had made a small accessory switch panel. I was able to incorporate the fuse block into the panel I made.
You can see what I did here:
http://www.ttalk.info/Sheward.htm

Although I had mentioned earlier in the thread putting "in-line fuses" ...I should have said "temporary to locate any shorts". My bad!
IMHO: A fuse block is a much better way to go as they are much easier to spot a bad fuse.

There are several versions folks here have come up with over the years. If I was doing this again I would probably go with the more modern "spade type" fuses and hide it somewhere. From under my bonnet my wiring appears to be "mostly stock" as I retained the original block. (I kind of like that!)





David Sheward "IZZY" TF 7427

"Is extra fusing a good idea?"

When asked that question I always refer to Jaspers "I let the smoke out" picture....any questions?




David Sheward "IZZY" TF 7427

OBTW:
Since you are going to be knee-deep in your wiring to add fuses, there may be a couple other things you might want to give a thought to!

1: A cut off switch for the fuel pump.
(The tickler pins on SU carbs are somewhat prone to sticking open when not run for a while. The close proximity to the exhaust manifold makes this a potentially dangerous condition. Makes a good anti-theft devise as well as it won't get far on just the gas in the bowls.)

2: IMHO, The wiper switch set-up inside the glove box is a joke to get properly "sync'd". (I have period locking glove box covers on my car that make it even worse as I have to unlock and remove them to turn the wipers on.) A toggle switch is much easier.

3: Cigarette lighter socket sure comes in handy for GPS and/or cell phone. (Be very careful how you install this if your car is still positive ground!)

I could go on and on ...but now is the time to think about what you might want down the road.

Cheers & Best Regards,
David
David Sheward "IZZY" TF 7427

Excellent thanks guys.

My wiring harness is in good shape. Very neat and no repairs or cuts.

To create minimum disruption, maximum reversibility and (frankly) simplest for me to get my head around....I'll stick to in line fuses and add them as I go.

I'll follow Evan's guide to place them and put in the correct fuses as per his table.

Thanks :-)

Dave
D Moore

I can well understand that approach!
(Mine was quite different.)
Don't forget the dielectric grease on your connections!
(Had my PO done that...my harness would not have corroded to the point where I was left with little alternative but to cut it back.)
David Sheward "IZZY" TF 7427

Has anybody put a fuse block in the engine compartment? I was thinking there would be multiple good location including mounting outside the toolbox...
It's messy enough under my dash already :)

Pictures anybody?
Geoffrey M Baker

Geoffrey,
In a word : YES! LOL


David Sheward "IZZY" TF 7427

As an aside to Dave S. comment, "The tickler pins on SU carbs are somewhat prone to sticking open when not run for a while. The close proximity to the exhaust manifold makes this a potentially dangerous condition."

This is not the tickler pins that are causing the problem, instead it is the float lever drop adjustment (something that was never addressed in all of the carburetor rebuild/adjustment procedures I have ever seen). See the article, Float Lever Drop Adjustment in the Other Tech Articles section of my Homepage at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

As for a shut off switch for the fuel pump, if you don't have fog lights installed, just use that switch as a shut off for the fuel pump. Cheers - Dave D.
David DuBois

I suspect they didn't put it "in" the tool box as they needed to carry a good supply of:


David Sheward "IZZY" TF 7427

Dave D,
Is it actually improper float lever drop adjustment or just that the level can actually can drop during long periods of inactivity due to evaporation to a point where the pins can "stick"?

I have had this happen only twice in over 12 years.
The first time was shortly after having carbs rebuilt by a very reputable source. Both times a quick "jab" to the pin allowed the float to free up.
Both times the car had sat for a few months without being started (in an unheated garage) as it was stored some distance from my home.

Since the car now has a home, she is started on a more regular basis...but I still occasionally put a drop of lite oil on the pins as a precaution.

David Sheward "IZZY" TF 7427

OK Guys, I checked under the instrument panel yesterday and verified that the image Bud provided is not of my doings. I sent the correct info to Bud who I am sure will delete the diagram he posted. Perhaps he will later provide an updated schematic sketch if and when he gets time away from "Lazarus".
My extra fuse "box" is mounted on the wood brace just forward of the inside mirror mounting base. I did not have to cut any of the original wires, only terminated the existing ones to my extra fuse box. Two short lengths of appropriate wire color code and wire size is all I added. These two fed the fuse box from the headlamp switch. My location is not the most accessible place but then I don't have to replace fuses very often. It is sure better than having to replace a complete wire harness as I had to do after making the wrong connections on my rear license plate light. All my lights are now fuse protected.


Jim Merz

I'm at a loss for how that wiring diagram got attributed to Jim. See http://www.ttalk.info/MerzWiring.jpg The date on the image is 5/16/2004. Does anybody out there claim parentage? I'd be happy to properly ID it, rather than just call it an anon. Bud
Bud Krueger

Dave - I recently helped a friend reactivate his TF after about 40 years of unuse. After reading Evan Fords article, I put together a terminal strip for under the fascia. This may help guide you in your decision of how/where to add fuses. Good Luck - Lou Van K.


Lou Van Koningsveld

Found some shots of my fuse block. Head lights and air horn are on separate fused relays.


Mort 50 TD (Mobius)

Surely the vulnerable part of the electrical system is the wiring itself. If there is a short the wire gets hot and a fire starts. Thus the best place for a fuse is as close to the power source as possible. If say a fuse was placed in the headlamp circuit and the feed wire shorted BEFORE the fuse the fuse would not blow an fact would be useless.

Cheers

Jan T
J Targosz

This thread was discussed between 13/02/2014 and 18/02/2014

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