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MG TD TF 1500 - Tappet Clearance Plate
|I will be swapping the tappet clearance Plate from my old valve cover to the new one. The holes on the new one are about 1/16". I have not punched the old ones out yet, but I thought they were larger than 1/16. Anyone know the correct size? Having trouble locating a riveting tool with a head that will handle a 1/16" rivet, let alone finding 1/16" rivets. Thanks|
1/16' rivets are hard to find (easy to "order" ...but most venders want you to order min of 10k of them!) Luckey for you that you know somebody that used to use quite a few of these years ago and still has a good supply of them in his basement!
The one's I have are stainless steel. If you need a few fire me an address off line and I will drop some in an envelope to you.
David 55 TF1500 #7427
|Thanks David. Let me see if I can find a rivet gun head that small, and I'll let you know. Can I assume 1/16th is the correct size for the plate? I know the holes in the cover appear to be about 1/16th, but with all the restorations over time, one never knows for sure.|
Don't "punch" them out! Either drill or "cut" the rivets off with a dremal tool from the inside. Those covers are very thin metal!
David 55 TF1500 #7427
|Yes David, that's the plan, to dremel off the inside and push them out. Thanks for the reminder. As for the "stainless" rivets, are they soft enough that a squeeze type riveting tool will compress them?|
I have actually used these on three VC plates, (one for me two for others that brought them to my garage). You do need to use a washer on the back side as the VC metal is very soft & thin. I have a air rivet tool ...but did these with a cheap hand tool....just in case. I would not want to do 1000 of them that way..but for 2 rivets it works. The big question is "are they correct"? I think the orginials were actually alum? (Anybody know for sure?) My DPO had my orginial cover done in a really crappy chrome (Did somebody make a "DIY Home Chrome kit" it's that bad!) ... and had put the plate back on with screws that leaked oil! These rivets cured the leak...but I went to a NOS aftermarket cover a friend found for me in the UK..so it has been sitting on the shelf for years.
David 55 TF1500 #7427
I'd love to take you up on your offer of the 1/16" rivets, but so far I am unable to find a hand riveter that has a 1/16" head. Smallest I can find is 3/32" at Ace Hardware. Glad you mentioned the screws, as I have a bunch of 3/32" stanless screws that I thought of as a backup plan. But if they're going to leak, I'll ditch that thought.
I sent you my email address, and would gratefully accept a few 1/16" rivets as I continue searching for a hand riveter that has a 1/16" head. Thanks again.
If you have,or can get access to a small lathe, these tiny solid rivets can easily be turned/manufactured.
The originals were made out of Brass and with good reason.They are quite strong yet malleable enough to achieve a perfect seal when carefully peened over on the inside of the cover.Result:No leaks!
Notoriously the Valve Covers clearance plates are linished "into obscurity" by over zealous chromeplaters who plated the covers( I believe TAs had chrome covers originally).Of course as you know,the TC,TD,and TF covers originally were just painted.Over here we have access to the usually 'untouched',mint condition clearance plates on Wolseley 4/44s which had the same clearance rating as mgtfs.
|Rob. I don't have access to a lathe. I just removed the plate today, and the rivets were definitely brass. The ones David is sending are stainless. I would think they would seal also - no? |
Problem WAS finding the "squeeze" type hand riveter, that will do these very short shank rivets in the 1/16" size. Now I see I can buy one online for better than $150 USD, but just for 2 rivets I'm not planning that. So, the dilemma on how to compress these rivets when I get them continues. If I knew what kind of shop used these regularly I would just have them do it. A friend says try an aircraft maintenace shop.
|I am planning on using an aluminum finned valve cover on my TF. Wonder how I can fasten the original valve clearance plate? The aluminum (from Brown and Gammons)seems to be thick. Wonder if I can thread it and use a small screw? Thoughts?|
Why not order and use the small rivets sold to hold the Auster nameplate on the windshield? You can drill a small hole in the aluminum and press these into place (press fit). Moss part # 325-210
Might work for the Larry's application too...as I remember they're soft.
This thread was discussed between 01/12/2006 and 05/12/2006
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