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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Front Wheel Cylinders


I have just spent an hour going thru all of the archive posts on front wheel cylinders. Some have used White Post, some have used Apple. Some have hads good luck with brass inserts, some have stated that they used stainless inserts. I could not figure out which vendor does stainless, or maybe they both will do that? I use a set of Apple-rebuilt front shocks with the Heavy-Duty option, and I have had Billy Thompson re-build the master cylinder, all with excellent results.

Believe it or not though, my vintage racer still has the original aluminum front wheel cylinders, and since I do an off-season flush and drain each year, I tend to go over them. This is getting to be a big pain, and I'd like to have them sleeved with stainless.

Has anyone had them done in stainless recently, by which of the above vendors, and about what did it cost?

Thanks in advance, as always!

Jeff Brown

OK, here is a follow-up, from conversations I just had with both Apple and White Post:

Neither vendor recommends stainless sleeves, as they BOTH stated that the stainless sleeve is too harsh on the rubber sweep seal. Apple stated, "As long as you are OK with checking and/or replacing the seal more frequently, OK". Billy from White Post said, "Never use silicone fluid, and never use stainless sleeves"...

Apple charges $50 per cylinder to sleeve; $85 per cylinder for a rebuild. If you insist on a stainless sleeve, add $10 to each.

White Post charges $80 per cylinder for a rebuild, using brass sleeves.

(Should have taken the time to do this research with a simple phone call FIRST!).

Jeff Brown

I have used Phil Marino.909-352-4419
Len Fanelli

I've heard it suggested that aluminum should not be sleeved with brass because of a possible electrolytic reaction.

I just resleeved four front cylinders in stainless steel, as that had been recommended by others.

Mark Frappier
82 Mountainview Street
Agawam, MA 01001

M/C $65
Wheel cylinder $45

I believe Mark's number is 1-800-528-5235.

Larry Shoer

i had my master done in stainless 4 years ago. i have run silicone since with no problems. regards, tom
tm peterson

I had my TF master cylinder resleeved in brass by White Post 1n 1984,
With silicone since then I have had NO PROBLEMS in 13 years!! ! !
There can be no electrolytic problems with silicone since no water for ionizations.

Stainless or brass would have similar electrolytic problems wit DOT 4 and the absorbed water. Brass is a better for low friction than stainless.
Don Harmer

Jeff, Mine run brass and have been for many years. Used to be on normal fluid, now silicone with no probs. I think you'll find the silicone debate is a bit like the 'Orange and the Green' Regards, Richard.
R Payne

I have stainless sleeves in both my cars and they were done by the predisessor to Mark Frappier, "Let George Do It". I think it was Marks father-in-law. Anyway they were beautifully done and have worked well in the years since.

I work in the marine electronics industry and of course we are a bit touchey about electrolytic corrosion. Brass and aluminum are a recipe for disaster. As long as no water gets to the sleeves it probably works OK but who is going to check the sleeves every few monthes for water? Silicon brake fluid may stave off problems because it does not absorb water from the atmosphere. But why take chances.

On the other hand brass and aluminum are much closer in expansion coefficients than aluminum and stainless. So there is less chance of the sleeve becoming loose with brass than with stainless. Why hasn't someone used aluminum for a replacement sleeve? Seems there ought to be an aluminum alloy that would have the same or very close expansion coefficient as the cast cylinders. Then with silicon fluid they should last forever.

This is just my $0.02 worth.
R. K. (Bob) Jeffers

During restoration, I replaced the rubber cups in my front cyls. White Post had brass sleeved them some time before 1997, and they were absolutely perfect, have always used silicone fluid. George
George Butz

Hi Jeff.,

On TFs I have always used stainless steel liners with the Silicone Brake Fluid when doing total rebuilds. Virtually no problems over a 30 year period !

However,even with the use of Silicone,the rubber cups usually will need replacement way ahead of any problems caused by modification to the wheel cylinder linings.The more the car is used ,the less likely it seems that brake problems arise.

In consulting a reputable Brake company some time ago,they indicated that it is a good idea to use Loctite sealer when fitting the liners to assist in guaranteeing a perfect seal between the new liner and the wall of the cylinder.

In Australia,PBR supply the best,longer lasting rubber wheel cylinder cups.(P22's).For some time now,they can only supply the factory standard size rubber cups.Be warned,Silicone or not,many other suppliers around the world supply 'less than perfect quality'rubber cups that will allow passage of fluid from the wheel cylinders onto those newly lined Brake shoes you have just fitted !!

Cheers for now.


This thread was discussed between 12/07/2007 and 14/07/2007

MG TD TF 1500 index

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