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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Steering Rack Removal - Help

Quick question: My father read in the TD/TF factory manual that it is possible to remove the steering rack from the car after removing the tie rod ends, the four mounting bolts, and the engine stabilizer. I read this as well - but my father, my brother, and I have been unable to move the rack over and down as shown in the photo in the shop manual.

Can this really be done?

We have left the radiator and radiator support in place.

Is there some special sequence in positioning the rack in order to remove it?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff
Jeff

Hi Jeff,

I took my rack out AFTER I had dismantled almost the whole front of the car, so I can't speak with absolute authority, however, the two things working against you are the large round openings in the front dumb irons, and the portion of the frame coming up along side the pinion shaft.

Depending on why you are removing the steering rack, you could use a modified 15/16 socket to remove the nut holding the elephant ear flange on the end of the pinion shaft, and then withdraw the flange with a harmonic balancer puller. Then, you can remove the pinion shaft from the frontof the rack by removing the front cover plate. The rack would then slide right out with no interference.

I do have to imagine though, that with careful manuevering, you should be able to negotiate the removal of the rack in one piece.

Perhaps looking at my website will help you visualize the manuevering needed.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Jeff,

Don't waste your time trying to figure out how to remove the R&P.

Believe me, its MUCH faster if you remove the enrire radiator.

There are two miserable nuts under the bottom rad support that will be your only nuisance, but I could always remove them both in a half hour.

Unlike the TF, removal of the rad, involves the head lamp brackets and that too is annoying, but overall, you'll find it much easier to work on a "clean" front end.

And you can always clean the front of the engine, check the water pump for shaft looseness, etc while you're at it.

You did intend to do that too, didn't you?

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.

Gordon A. Clark

I agree with Gord. Some time ago, I tried to remove the R & P as shown in the shop manual and found that it was beyond my ability (or a figment of the manual writer's imagination). Less than a hours worth of work had the radiator sitting on the floor of the garage, making the R & P removal much easier. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Hi Jeff

I went through the same thing about six months ago. After many tries I finally disassembled the front of the car which makes it infinately easier to remove and replace the rack. While there check the inboard mounting bracket for the engine stabilizer under the water pump. Mine was broken and I don't think that I could have replaced it without removing the radiator. Not easy with the radiator removed. By the way, I believe the reason that you can not remove the rack using tha manual procedure is that the procedure is written for a right hand drive car.

Dick Safety Fast
Dick McCutcheon

Jeff

Have to agree with all the above. Remove, headlamps, undo the two radiator bolts, (a real pain) take off the support rods, hose clamps and Voila, the radiator comes out. Grill, shell and all.

One recommendation. Mark the rad. support plate so you remember how it was positioned. It can go on absolutely backwards, and will appear correct, but hood will not fit and you have to remove the Rad again.
Bruce-C

Good morning folks - thanks so much for the usual responses filled with great information! I was of the opinion that the rack could not be removed without taking off the radiator - I know too well those two nuts and mounting spacers under the radiator support bracket!

David - interestingly, this car happens to be a right hand drive and I still don't think it will come out. I wondered about that also.

While we are on the subject somewhat- what are the best rack boots to use as replacements - if possible I would like to replace the old ones with some new ones that will last until June 2009 at the very least!

The replacements seem to be of very poor quality. I hear that there are some "superior quality" specification - meaning better than the ones that fall apart after 3-4 months.

Thanks again for all the help.

Jeff
Jeff

Jeff,

Recent repros of the rack boots are made of a synthetic 'rubber' and are difficult as hell to replace.

The original all-rubber ones would stretch more easily, but I haven't seen any in a long time.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A. Clark

I read somewhere in these threads, that the MGA boots will fit the "T" R&P, but due to being slightly smaller on the big end, are more difficult to install. I also think it said that they were a little longer than the "T" boots, and that would mean less stretching in full lock and that could be a great benefit. It is possible that these are made of a superior rubber and may be a better option. If someone has tried them, perhaps they could give us some feed back.
George Raham
TD 4224
G. L. Raham

I have been using MGB boots. They are litle tihhter fit but are longer and do not flex as much.
Sandy
conrad sanders

Prior to fitting boots I must learn to spell.I meant tighter.
Sandy
conrad sanders

This thread was discussed between 28/11/2008 and 29/11/2008

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