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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Steering Wheel Removal
|Does anyone have any good hints about removing the TD steering wheel?. |
I'm trying to replace it with a new Brooklands and the bearing pullers that I have don't help out that much to remove the wheel as they don't hold on to the wheel that good.
Any easier way to remove it.
John Twist has always recommended getting your knees behind the wheel and levering it. You have to assure the column coupling is very tight or the column will slide up.
A little penetrating oil around the shaft helps me.
|Hello David - |
Once you have removed the nut inside the center dished portion of the wheel hub, most come off with little effort - that has been my experience (luck?). I would try soaking the inner splined shaft and the hub with some PB Blaster and use a rawhide hammer to tap the back face of the inner hub. You may want to lower the steering column from the support bracket to do this.
I think a puller would damage your hub. Also make sure the locating key is not dislodged and preventing the wheel from moving off the shaft. You could also remove the upper adjustable splined shaft and work on it on your bench. Just move the chrome cover back and removed the woodruff key - it should then pull out I think.
Keep us posted,
|Loosen the nut a bit, while pulling the wheel outward (knees work well here), then whack the nut/shaft with a rawhide hammer or block of wood. A good smack usually pops it right off|
| I find that with a stuck wheel it is easier to remove the wheel complete with the upper portion of the splined shaft. Then I have a heavy piece of wood with a hole drilled throough it so that you can feed the column stub through it. Then with the large nut turned on so the the nut is flush with the upper ends of the threads it is easy with a large aluminum or brass drift pin of at least 1" in diameter placed on the nut and followed by a sharp rap with a BFH the shaft will pop right out. This way there is zero damage to the wheel or threads. |
I have since read the factory shop manual (yes I have 2) and will try that (removing the top of the shaft) if I can't tap the wheel off. The only reason I was trying a puller was that, that was a comment that John Kimble made when we chatted. I was tapping the back of the wheel with a brass hammer and it seeemd to be inching up some.
I will try again today and see what goes. I did not want to damage the shaft or wheel.
I'm just in the process of removing my original wheel which is now in a state of total disrepair.
I put on some WD40 and let it soak o/night. Then using a blunt chisel on the inside ridge, I tapped it a few times, and it came off easily.
|Gordon A. Clark|
|Thanks to all,|
After enough banging and pulling my rawhide knock off hammer got the old wheel off. I want to save the wheel since it is the original steering wheel.
I'm getting rady to take "Sir Scotty" out for a test drive and see how the 15 1/2" Brooklands steering wheel will do with the handling.
Even though I have restored a few cars I am extra carefull when working on "Sir Scotty" since he is all original (Except for the leather seat and Top and side curtains) Original paint from 1951 with only about 43,350 miles.
Attached a photo of Sir Scotty with his new Brooklands steeing wheel.
I am glad that you were able to remove the old steering wheel. I recently replaced the wiring harness on my 52 TD, and after reading some relevant threads on the archives, I devised my own procedure to reove my steering wheel. Needless to say, the final step consisted of me sitting in the driver's seat pulling very hard on the steering wheel. I can now say with confidence that if you appropriately loosen the bolts, after some initial resistance, the steering wheel will come off. . . easily . . .too easily. In my case, I pulled it off the column with such force that it smashed into my face, bloodying my nose and cutting my lips and face. I have played rugby for most of my life (still do), and my MG injury ranks right up there with my rugby injuries. Very embarassing.
Congratulations on owning a rare, factory-original 57-yr-old TD with original paint, to boot. Wonderful!
I too have a factory-original TF which I bough new from the dealer in Montreal In August 1954. Like you my paint is original but, the time is near at hand when I'll be obliged to re-paint the car. The coachwork is pukka original with nary a nick. I even have the original exhaust system, mind you patched-up many times; but the sound of an original TF is mighty nice to hear.
Its had a lot of miles put on it - like 250,000 - and is on its 4th engine, 2nd gearbox and 2nd diff.
Take good care of it.
|Gordon A. Clark|
I'VE GOT TO ASK,,,,, WHAT IS THAT ON THE GLOVE BOX DOOR ???
I believe its one of those stick-on bell-shaped ash receivers, which when rotated, closes off the opening for cigs and ashes.
... no further comment needed.
|Gordon A. Clark|
You are right. Put there by the original owner. You twist if off to empyh it with the base staying on the glove box.
In the 50's everyone smoked, I know I did back then. In 1954 they sold for $1.50 and they sky rocketed to $1.95 by the late 50's. The only good they wee was when you had your top and side curtains up.
I have a cigarette that I covered with clear tape so when I go to car shows I stick the cigarette in so people will know what it is.
Gordon, I'd love to see your TF some time.
Happy MGing... David
|I still smoke after 45 years (and am still alive)... even with the sidecurtains and top up, the wind sucks the ashes out between the bottom of the curtain and the door top....|
A friend gave me this last year....a bit of a radical 'cut' job....
Your chance may come in 2011, as (health permitting ... I'll be 78), I plan to go to MG 2011 wherever it is (... have to check with Rick Ingram on this).
But by then, the original paint will be replaced with something with less "patina".
|Gordon A. Clark|
This thread was discussed between 29/11/2008 and 03/12/2008
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