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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - TF hood prop?

(I hope not open a hornets nest like my last thread did.) Is there a hood prop for the TF? I refuse to just fold it back onto itself and trust that it will stay there without coming down on my head or fingers, not to mention the damage that could be done to paint, panels or chrome. What do you use?
Gene Burgess

I use an approximatly nine inch long, inch wide flat peice of broken wooden moulding that was previously an effective paint stirrer. I holds up the bonnet nicely when positioned against the panel next to the radiator. When not in use it fits neatly in the grove above the tool box. I can supply detailed drawings if requested.
Bill McGee

I keep two pieces of thin cane in the toolbox (to prop up both sides at the same time if necessary). Useful for dipping the tank too.
John James

I used a leather lace and looped it around the push button bracket. the other end was left long enough to loop around the bracket on the bonnet itself.With a tight loop on the lower end and a loop left to hook over the bonnet bracket it hols the panel just right without scrascthing anything, Just adjust the lenght to suit.
Sandy Sanders
conrad sanders

I use an 18-inch long piece of 3/8 dowel rod which I carry in the "V" behind the tool box. (2 of them). They are tipped with the rubber rod tips from the local hardware store. In use, one end is placed in the rear catch on the hood (bonnet) and the other end in the "V" created by the side panel. The rods are painted appropriately.

Years ago, Moss and Abingdon Spares sold an 18" length of 1/8/-inch wire cable with eylets swaged on the ends that was supposed to be "TF Hood Restraints".When installed they would limit the opening of the hood at just past the place where the hood would close itself.
These supposedly were fastened to the side panel and to the hood panel using existing bolts ( either the chrome molding fastners and the latch bolts). There were no instructions. I could never figure out where to install them so the folded cable wouldn't foul something when the hood was closed.

Therefore I settled for the dowels above. They work great.
Don Harmer

Like you, I have had the bonnet come down on my head several times. As you will see it hasn't affected me too much.

So I devised a nice little system to automate the opening and closing of the bonnet, just like the Yank cars.

I have fabricated a bracket that would allow the mounting of an air cylinder at the rear of the bonnet and attached one to each side of the rear of the bonnet panel. I did this with very small rivets which I later smoothed off and repainted the bonnet so they don't show,

The cylinders are small and came from the cockpit opening system of a WWII Spitfire. I suppose they would be hard to find today, but surely small cylinders can't be that hard to find. These are plumbed to a small (12V) air horn compressor (mine is a Maserati). I have also had to mount a ‘stop' switch so that when the angle of the bonnet panel is just right, the air supply is interrupted and prevents the action of the cylinder from over-extension. I have also installed a snubber valve so the action of opening of the bonnet panel is at first quick, then slows before stopping by the ‘stop' switch.

This is all actuated from a small pneumatic switch I located at the back of the glove box and works beautifully on an LHD car as it doesn't quite interfere with the W/S actuator knob, but I doubt would work on an RHD car as the pneumatic switch can't be mounted in the reverse position or it will interfere with the W/S knob. So I guess this simple modification really can't be used by you, or any other TF owner with an RHD car.

This is a simple system and the effect of activating it a road speeds really surprises drivers driving along side me. The only problem is, is that I haven't yet figured out how to lower these panels, without stopping the car and doing so manually. Also on really hot days, they tend to sometime open and close at will as I drive along.

I am open to suggestions.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A. Clark

I made up a foldings stays (one set each side), the lower end fixed to the side of the tool box and the upper end fixed to a bracket mid way along the rear channel on the under-side of the hood.

When the hood is opened, the stay folds out and holds the hood open.

When closing I have to push the stay inwards as the stays bind with the hood if they fold outwards.

The two arms of the stay are of different lengths so that the pivot point moves down as the hood is closed - otherwise the pivot point would hit the hood when closing.

There is not a problem if there is a gust of wind as the hood is kept securely open.

I set this up in about 1973 but the norm of using some sort of stick, is MORE ORIGINAL.

Peter
Peter Falconer

Gentlemen, you amaze me once again! There are solutions from simple to exotic. I'll do some measuring of my own and come up with something similar to several of the posts here. Thank you. One last thing. I am a member of three other car forums for exactly the same reasons that I joined this one and they can't hold a candle to the quick, accurate, and friendly responses that I am getting here on the MG Forum. You people have the right spirit!
Gene Burgess

Gord
How many time did you say you were hit on the head by the bonnet?
LOL
John
John James

John,

d' Uhhhhh?

gc
Gordon A. Clark

Gene,
Send me your email and I can send some pic's of mine for you.
I have the "Abingdon Spares" straps installed to pevent the dreaded "flop over / aka: paint chip & bonnet bend" and have come up with a inexpensive "prop" using a 1/2" fiberglass rod (electric fence post)mounted in a spring attached under the front side panel mounts. It's a little hard to describe but it is about 18" long and folds nicely behind the bonnet latches and the spring holds it in place there. The tip was dipped in "liquid tool grip" so it does not scratch the paint, has a small bundgie cord zip-tied to it that hooks to the latch on bonnet when in use and it is always there when I need it. I tried to dowel rods and stuff for years and find this to work very well. I have had a couple of other TF owners look at this and they have done the same thing now. Very easy to make once you see it.
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

To all you TF "bonnet-poppers",

I didn't realise the tremendous interest my solution to raising the TF bonnet, would produce. I've received many e-mails at home, 'phone calls , faxes and even a couple of teletype messages. Thanks a lot.

The most commonly-asked question is "can it work on a TD or a TC"? Yes. In fact, my first installation was on my TD and to say the least, it was indeed, spectacular, especially at highway speeds.

I do have a complete set of 32 engineering drawings (size E) on linen that I commissioned Vickers to do, and with a deposit of a few hundred quid, I'll lend them to anybody as silly as I am, to ask for them.

GAC

Gordon A. Clark

Here we go again - you guys "over there" not usings the Queen's English properly. My hood is propped up with the correct two bow hood frame - why do you need additional brackets.

Happy Christmas to all


Jan T
Jan Targosz

Jan,
Lighten up on "the nue guy" eh?
We got him thinking we are all pretty nice folks out here!
Gene...don't take Jan to seriously....must be a "nor-easter" blowin' up his "skirt"!
Just kidden' Jan !!!
Happy Holidaze to all!
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

Dave
I just have to qoute you out of contexts this one time.

"tip was dipped in "liquid tool grip" has a small bundgie cord zip-tied to it,when in use and it is always there when I need it. I tried dowel rods and stuff for years

Dave, there is no one that enjoys your witty comments more than I do,but please remember that this is a "PG" rated BB.

Tom
T.L. Manion

Jan
How long have they been speaking English north of the border?
Happy New Year
John
John James

Gord: Are you certain that you have a Canadian version of Chitty-Chitty Bang-bang. Maybe you use the bonnets in a part open position to fly over the snow drifts in outer Slobovia(QUEBEC)I thought that spitfires were little four wheeled things that had a queer front opening bonnet.MERRY CHRISTMAS anyway.
Sandy said that from SUNNY FLORIDA
conrad sanders

But seriously folks....getting back to bonnet props. Most Home Depots or stores of the sort sell protective corner moldings made of heavy clear vinyl. I bought a piece and cut two props to the desired lengths. drilled holes at either end and place one end into the rear bonnet latch the other down into the release mechanism. The ends are secured with nylon tie wraps to keep sudden gusts of wind at bay. The end result is the bonnet halves are securley open and the props are virtually invisible....their v shape lends rigidity, the v being faced outwards. No comments on my invisible prop Dave!!!!
jeff payne

I have just painted my pair of 21" canes with black POR15 and very smart they look. As one cane doubles as a dipstick I will add a graduated scale in white using measurements given on http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/dipstick/dipstick.htm. Although for a TD I will use it for my TF (My maths is too rusty to modify it)
John
John James

John,
I have an old "Mike Goodman" dipstick that is marked for "TD & TF"....if you like could get you the measurements for both off it.
Jeff,
Has anyone asked to "see" the "JP Invisible Viagra Prop" yet?...or you keeping yer' stick under wraps these days!
Sorry ...coudn't resist that one.
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

Thanks David. I would appreciate the measurements for 3,6 8 &10 Imperial Gallons. Below 3 is risking a flame-out and I can't afford more than ten gallons at UK prices!
John
John James

And David since you have raised it - I would like to ask if others have got it in the neck (back of the head) for inappropriate use of their rod?

Peter
Peter Falconer


Gene,

You started this thread by stating in part " .... (I hope not open a hornets nest like my last thread did.)". Well, congratulations.You did exactly that!

I thought I could kill it by being a bit stupid, but obviously this discussion on "sticks" and "rods" has gone way off the topic.

Maybe we can all meet next September at The Glen where MG will be the honoured marque, and where as I understand it, NAMGAR, the NAMGBA, the NEMGTR and a few other clubs are urging their members to come together for a big week-end (Sept 10 to 12, 2004), the North American version of Silverstone, and compare our bonnet-openers.

So on that fellow T-Series affecianados, Have a good Holiday Season (note political correctness). Perhaps in the New Year, we'll all return to normal, starting with me.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A. Clark

"we'll all return to normal" ....THIS IS NORMAL, for me anyway! Or at least as close as I get when there is snow flying.
The wife and I had a good close look at my stick this morning and can report that it shows no differance for TD/TF but does have different scale for the TC as TC was 12 gallon tank not 15 as in TD/TF.
John,
Took pix of my dip-stick, put em' in a zip and sent them to you!
Maybe one of Bush's buddies can sell you some $3.00 a gallon gas for $.10!
Gord,
Maybe this will kill it!
Cheers to all!
David 555 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

This thread was discussed between 06/12/2003 and 14/12/2003

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