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MG TD TF 1500 - TF in Storage Garage
|I responded to an ad for am MG and am purchasing this car -- HDE43/7309 with XPEG 1144. The ID badge is on the engine. The car is now a rolling chassis with the body completely dismantled. The body color matches its code, all of the body parts appear to be there, and also the original interior. The car has been dismantled for at least 15 years. Please take a look at the photos and give my your reaction...it looks like a very good project to me but I don't have the experience to see all of the details in short order. |
|Charlie, It looks like you have a head start on the chassis. From the photos, the tub look like it needs work and while doing that make sure the wood is in good shape. A lot of fellas will offer expert help, that's what makes this site worth it's weight in gold! I don't know what I would have done without their help. All I can say is, don't get in a hurry, patience is your best friend in redoing these T series cars. Been working on mine almost 5 years and still not done. Good luck with your car and keep us posted on your progress and lots of photos! PJ|
|Paul S Jennings|
|My TF is no. 7481/XPEG 1292 so we are quite close in numbers. My TFs production date is Oct 15 1954. Depending of course on the work done on chassis/driveline and the price asked this looks like a very nice project. In my eyes the almond green metallic colour is the most attractive on a TF - lucky you! When properly set up these cars are really nice to drive. But do consider a five speed gearbox or a 4.3:1 diff conversion. |
|Jan Emil Kristoffersen|
|Owned by Ronald B. Clunk from PA according to the listing in The Sacred Octagon in 1979.|
Looks like a good project, and a 1500 too.
|What a great project car! Make sure you photo document anything that is still original, from finishes, fasteners, nuts, bolts, upholstery details, bumper assemblies. Also are the seat back bars painted upholster color, etc. Plenty of great advice here, Paul and others are doing TF's now so they are really the current experts on most TF specific stuff. George|
|I can see the TF dash and center console on the top shelf. Looks to be in really nice condition and I can see all the gauges. Take your time color matching and take it to a good paint supplier to get the color close as you can. You might be able to buff it out and keep it original.|
You'll have metal repair to do on the tub. The original paint hides alot of sins, so expect time repairing that. Hopefully the wood is good.
Does the engine turn? Get the hand crank to make sure it didn't cease.
I don't see the chrome grill. That is the jewel of the car and they are difficult to find to replace.
|Thanks so very much for your comments and encouragement! I'm looking forward to the project like no other I have done. |
I will post often once I get into the project. I'm thinking I'll start this winter with stripping the panels and preparing them for paint.
Paul, the wood in the tub and doors looks excellent except for the area in the tub just forward of the rear wheel area. While the side of the tub remains stiff, I can see through the rust hole that the bottom of the timber is deteriorated a bit. Deciding what to do about the wood there and the rust spots on each side will be a question.
Jan, The production date of the car was October 1, 1954, just 14 days before yours. The engine and transmission were rebuilt about 15 years ago after the car was dismantled. It has been started periodically since then. The brakes were done but the master cylinder is frozen. I'll redo the wheel cylinders well and brake lines with copper nickel tube.
George, I'll lay out the parts and photo everything in detail. I'm sure I have most, if all of a complete original interior in green. I'll post these photos. I'm thinking I should hold onto all of the interior pieces until the car is restored. I don't know yet what fasteners were retained. The car may have been repainted once in original color, I will know more about that once I get the pieces in my workshop.
How often/when should I start a post with a new thread?
The grill shell was not in the storage unit but I will have it soon. I was told it is in good shape although the chrome has been stripped.
I am also in the process of restoring a 1500 TF in Dublin Ireland and have found this forum invaluable. If you have plenty of time to spare and a decent garage to work in I would highly recommended it. I think of it as mechano for big kids! Don't underestimate the time and cost involved in finishing a project like this. In many cases it can be cheaper and less time consuming to just replace anything that is worn or broken straight from the Moss catalogue. But really it's about saving as much of the original car as you can. There appears to be a lot already done with the chassis but you may find that the rubbers on the suspension have perished which will require a quite manageable rebuild. You may not save anything by buying a project and rebuilding it yourself but you do have the wonderful satisfaction of knowing you did yourself. Good Luck Darryl
Your car is looking quite beautiful!
I'll try very hard to do as well. As another has said, I won't rush this, I'm going to take my time.
The chassis was done over a decade ago so I will replace all of the suspension rubber. As I do so I'll also find out if all was done well.
I'm looking forward to corresponding with everyone and the support its clear the community will provide me.
I was told a long time ago to never buy a car that was in pieces. My experience has borne that admonition out. However, get out your checkbook and don't look back...you may get lucky, or maybe not?
Currently keeping the fingers crossed that my engine will take a rebuild. It's been dismantled for 30 years! One thing that struck me as I am going along is the list of parts that can no longer be got. Worth checking with Moss etc as to what is "No Longer for Sale" and just confirm you have these parts. Bonnet catches as I have just found out are a problem plus wiper motors etc.
Attached is a picture of my goal (our car as it was 50 years ago).
Good luck and keep in touch.
|Hi Charley -|
My TF-1500 is also a cousin of your TF and Jan's TF. My TF7211 was built 23-Sept-1954.
My best advice for the restoration of any classic vehicle is to think through every move before you make it. Seek answers from other TD and TF owners who have done the same job before you. Easy to do the job right the first time. Hard to repair a mistake and start over. This BBS is the best source of hands-on experienced answers by a great bunch of guys eager to help.
Check out Chris Couper's site devoted to TF's
His site also has detailed photos of TF9052, which has less than 6,000 miles and is all original. I use the photos as reference almost everytime I work on my car.
Send me your email address and I will give you a list of internet links to original documents and modern day tips and references.
|I've just finished having the tub and all of the sheet metal taken down to the bare metal. Interesting what is revealed - most everything was in pretty good shape, except the bottom of the doors (rusted, but the wood still ok). However, left front fender and left engine panel obviously in a prior accident. Someone did a really good job in filling it in. The fender took some doing but got in good shape. The engine panel was a mess - ended up being cheaper to buy a new panel. We used the old panel as a template to cut down the length. It's worth taking everything down to the bare metal.|
|Hi Charlie. Agree with almost all of the above. Just a word of caution about Moss. I now use Abingdon Spares & have yet to have an issue with any of the parts they've supplied. Unfortunately the same can't be said about Moss. The best thing about them is their catalogue as I & many others here have found their parts are often not what they should be. Good luck with the project. Cheers|
Peter TD 5801
|Be prepared to dismantle everything. The restoration of my car was started over 40 years ago and the engine was rebuilt in the 1960s by a very reputable engineering company but was never fired up. I stripped it and found whilst all the shiny bits had been well oiled and were perfect all the seals and gaskets had perished. The main and big end shells were totally unused but had turned black! These were also replaced. The radiator was brand new (I have the 1960s receipt) but had furred up. The guy who recored it for me said it had never been filled but if it had it would have been fine. One of the highlights was sorting through all the boxes of bits. Elation when I found all the componets for the windscreen, despondency when one runing board and one sidescreen strip were no where to be found. Also lots of puzzling bits which I eventually found not to be MG All problems and queries have been sorted, mainly through this form, thanks guys!|
|I appreciate all of the comments and good advice. I must determine how to shall document the components and record what I do. I will be sharing my adventure and consulting you often, and will post lots of pictures.|
My plan now will be to start this winter on the body panels and tub. I'd like to have all in good shape and painted by the end of 2015. Perhaps that is possible, unless I need to do much work on the wood.
By mid-year, or when in need of a change from the body work, I'll start going over the chassis. The brake cylinders will no double need redone and the brake pedal must be rebushed.
As Jan suggests for the engine, I'm going to go through it again, bottom to top and make sure all is right. Same with the transmission. The package comes with a 4.3 axle conversion, and I do have a 5 speed in the garage, needing only the bell housing and other bits. All that is way down the road.
e-mail me your location. Occasionally I can help.
I'm in Warrenton VA.
|Charlie Dropped your e-mail. Please send again.|
This thread was discussed between 17/12/2014 and 27/12/2014
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