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MG TD TF 1500 - ultra noob oil change question
|I haven't worked on my TF (not qualified and don't have the space or tools).|
It is stored offsite and even oil changes have been done by a specialized British car mechanic.
It needs another oil change at this time, but my favorite mechanic is unavailable and I'd love to take it to a much closer by recommended general mechanic anyway (here in Nashville USA) for a simple task like this.
So....is a TF oll change something a good, but not classic British car specialized mechanic should be able to figure out how to do right?
Any quirky things or particular "gotchas" that I should inform him of?
There is fortunately an easy oil filter access hatch on this TF, and I do know the type of oil that's been used (which I wish to continue using).
About the only thing that you might have to supply to him (or her) would be an oil filter, which you could order from Moss or Abingdon,, Every thing else is straight foward,,,10 W 30 would be fine for normal use,,,
|Did your old mechanic put a sticker on it for type of oil he has been using? |
If not call and ask him.
Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.
(even an oil change place)
Your problems may be:
1: If stock filter is fitted it is very doubtful they will have that in stock.
2: If your LBC mechanic has been using 50 weight oil (per workshop manual) I doubt they will have that either.
There is a lot of info in archives on oil recommendations now that many brands have lowered (or removed) ZDDP that our engines crave.
Hopefully your old mechanic can tell you what he has been using and you can find that in a parts store.
For the filter ...order from here:
|David Sheward 55 TF1500 # 7427|
Also, while it is in for an oil change, it shoud be greased, (lubricated), also pretty straight foward ,,
|20-50wt only in my opinion, with the additives David S mentions. Use a new drain plug copper washer, and make sure you read up on and find the info about making sure the old o-ring has been removed out of the groove in the pump body. They come in different sizes also, read up on that. Try to find a shop with an old guy working there! George|
|Also consider that the oil drain plug is made of brass and most non British mechanics will not have the exact size wrench to fit the plug. An adjustable wrench will do the job but NEVER a pipe wrench! It will chew the hell out of the brass plug. Guess what I found when I changed the oil the first time in my TD?|
|Jim, this is the one that came with my TD from the PO. I keep it on my Wall O' Shame just to remind me of what you said. I've seen oil change places use air wrenches to remove and put back oil drain plugs. I'm no metalurgist but it seems that with a brass plug going into a cast aluminum sump that's a recipe for disaster. I just changed my oil and if I recall correctly the 7/19W socket fit the plug perfectly. If I were going to a mechanic for an oil change I'd carry my Whitworth socket and insist that it be used.|
I think MR's car is a TF so this may not be applicable but on the TD one also needs to open the oil pump priming hole to ensure that the new oil is being pumped. I think I've read that priming is not necessary on TFs but someone who knows can confirm that for MR.
|J K Chapin|
|ZDDP was not removed from our oils. The amount was reduced to almost the same levels as when our cars were built. Regards, tom|
|Picky, picky, picky. 7/16, 7/19, what's 0.069078947 inches among friends but I'll tell you you'll probably pay a pretty penny for a 7/19W wrench when you find one. Jud|
|J K Chapin|
|Just so you know, Jud, 'buggered' has a somewhat more - ahem - well, let's just say 'naughty' meaning to our UK brethren. I'll leave you to Google it. |
Many years ago I was in a lovely old abbey in Mells, Somerset with an old friend and his dad, the elder being a master carpenter for a US department store. The church had the usual blue-haired ladies milling about, and the old gent was intently looking up at all the woodwork in the old church. After a while he pointed up and said, in an entirely too loud voice (as elderly gents are apt to do) "Hey, look at that, Chuck... they really buggered that up!" Needless to say, the blue-haired contingent nearly went into terminal shock. I quietly but rapidly ushered us out.
|My local station changes my oil but I let them use my wrenches. I use a high ZZDP oil in my car. also do not let them put grease in the steering /rack and pinion up front.|
|And only use GL4 spec gear oil in the rear end or you'll chew up all your spider and side gear thrust washers and they are NLA!!! I just went through this problem on a rear end I haven't even driven yet. GL5 and synthetics are a big NO!!! They have low sulphur or no sulphur which is needed to protect the soft metals in our rear ends|
Bill Chasser Jr
|W. A. Chasser Jr|
|You guys are very kind to the noob. Thank you.|
I've found a close by long time mechanic that many neighbors recommend, and he'll take a crack at it tomorrow, if I can get the TF started to drive it over there (that's another topic that I'll be starting, hopefully complete with a video of the current no-start behavior)
|Well the local mechanic found the gasket for the screw on oil filter to have split and to be leaking when the new filter was installed. Dangit now I'm delayed a day, and into less convertible friendly drivng weather, while he gets a replacement gasket.|
I'm mainly mentioning this in case what I'm describing sends up any glaring red flags that anyone thinks I should be aware of.
|Guys, I know that M's car is a TF and mine is a TD so I'm a bit out of my depth here but did the TF use the same Telcamet disposable cartridge as the later TDs use? If so, M can get a cartridge from NAPA that will include the necessary gaskets. I think the NAPA part number is 1300. Bud has an article on this in TTalk. Jud|
|J K Chapin|
|Thanks for checking in about this JK - I believe there has been a modification made to my TF so it uses a spin on filter instead of the original cartridge type now.|
|Hmmm. Then I wonder what gasket we're talking about. I just did that modification and the only gasket I used was the one between the adapter and the face of the oil pump. Since the adapter is not reomved (at least not intentionally) when changing the filter, that gasket should be a forever part. If your mechanic removed the adapter with the filter (accidentally or on purpose - doesn't matter), you'll meed a new gasket. Moss sells the gasket (item 133, 435-347 on MGT-142 page 9) for $1.95. I have an extra one that I'll be glad to send you if you wish. Email your address to jchapin3 at aol dot com. Jud|
Oops, I just noticed that the adapter offered by Moss does appear to include a smaller gasket that may need to be replaced with filter changes. Maybe there are different kinds of adapters. Jud
|J K Chapin|
|Thanks JK, I'm really hoping I'll get a call any minute that the gasket has been found locally and I'm ready to hit the road during these last few hours of the year (?) of nice weather.|
|OK, gasket in and was able to drive the TF back to storage just prior to the wintery cold front moving in. Done. :^)|
|J K Chapin|
This thread was discussed between 03/11/2014 and 11/11/2014
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