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MG TD TF 1500 - Windscreen problem

When I bought my '53 TD #27890, the previous owner told me he just hadn't gotten around to installing the wipers and wiper motor. When I tried to install, I noted that while the holes for the wipers themselves are unobstructed, the top edge of the glass runs about halfway through the central hole for the motor. For sometime, I figured I just had the wrong glass (like for a '52 or earlier with the motor mounted on the passenger side), but now I'm thinking that the glass just isn't settled down as far as it should be in the frame bottom. In fact, this bottom rail has been incorrectly assembled as the "Auster" tag is on the outside - toward the bonnet - rather than on the inside.

I talked to my local glass guy about drilling/routing the glass away from the hole, but he didn't think that should be necessary, or would work; that the problem is probably due to an error in assembly as I've noted above.

What is the wisdom of the BBS on this?

Many TIA!
Allen
Allen Bachelder

I believe (?) that even assembled right way around, the glass has to have a little 'dip' ground out of it? Can't imagine them doing this on an assembly line, but I think this is how it is?
gblawson(gordon)

Allen - I would go ahead and dive in to correct both situations by removing the frame from the car and removing the small screws in order to remove the upper and lower frame assemblies from the side pieces. Just make notes on the positions of the short and longs screws.

With a little time over a weekend, you can correct the glass situation and correct the position of your "Auster" plate.

Good luck,

Jeff
Jeff

Allen,

Taking apart the glass is not all that difficult. Some thoughts:

It's the only way to get everything re-chromed.
The glass itself is cut with 'dips' in it to clear the wiper motor and wiper studs.
I think my new glass was $60.
The screw kits from Moss seem to be long. Test fit them first. Grind them down if need be.
Order a new gasket.
The wiper motor kit from Moss is very expensive and only includes two chrome parts that are hard to get, the rest you can make.
The ears on the outer brackets mount to the front.
The windscreen is held together with 'potmetal' spacers and threaded plates. They assemble in a specific order.
Take a look at my website under windscreen.
Don't cut yourself.

I still have my old glass, but it would be pricy to ship to you. You're welcome to it for a pattern.

Hope this helps,
dave



Dave Braun

You could indeed have the wrong glass (earlier), with the indentation over to the side. I had the opposite problem- my glass was too low, together with a slight bow in the top frame piece due likely to new corner brackets and the mitred corners were altered when recrhomed, leaving a gap at the top. Had to disassemble, and make and use thin shims to hold the glass up high enough (a couple strips of vinyl flooring material). Glenn (Glenn's MG repair) told me to do this anyway, as he has seen glass crack from just pressing on the lower corner brackets, even if the screws are not too long. Important- make sure you have the top corner pegs on the correct side (notch to back of the car). Lets just say I didn't, had to order a new gasket, take the whole thing apart again, etc. George
George Butz

Dave,

I'm trying to get to your website. I can get to http://www.dbraun99.com/ but I don't see the link to "windscreen". My browser can't find http://www.braunprinting.com/mgtd15470/album/

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
Allen
Allen Bachelder

Allen,

You need to go to http://www.dbraun99.com/mgtd15470/ (or go to the http://www.dbraun99.com/ and click on one of the TD 15470 Restoration links).

The 'braunprinting' link no longer works since I closed the company.

On the page entitled "mg td15470", with all the chapter photos arranged in a matrix which is five columns wide, you scroll down to the chapter photo marked "Windscreen & Wiper Motor" (it is the 12th item going across first and then down). Click on that chapter. From there you will see two chapters, "Windscreen" and "Wiper Motor". "Windscreen" should get you there.

I find it helpful to use the F11 key to just view the website without the browser header bar. Also, you can use the arrow keys on your keyboard to scroll through the pictures. I hope this helps.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Dave,

' Got it! Many thanks for doing this and making it all available.

George, Jeff, and Gordon,

Many thanks to you also! George and Jeff, as you suggest, I still think I have the wrong glass. The only source I know of is Abingdon Spares - at $128 a pop. Is this my best alternative?

Cheers,
Allen
Allen Bachelder

your local auto glass place won't cut one for you? mine installed it in the frame for the same $$ regards, tp
tom peterson

one note, i would not let just any glass shop install this piece, but the local guys here happen to be good. tp
tom peterson

I had a local shop do it... $100.00.
Just a note... if you are putting the windshield up and down...make sure the little 'cup washers' are pulled out from the frame. I could see that mine had cracked from someone pulling on one side of the frame (to lower it) while the other side's cup was preventing the other side from lowering!
gblawson(gordon)

Allen,

I had Harmon Glass cut me one using my old glass as a pattern. It was cut from a 12x42 030 Clear Laminated Glass, it cost me $66 in Dec 2006.

Hope this helps,

dave
Dave Braun

Allen, if you only have the one obstruction to installing the glass and the wiper equipment just take the glass sheet and with you grinder carefully grind the obstruction out. The glass edge is easy to grind or sand. A small sanding drum in your drill will work well too.
Barc Cunningham

Thanks again, guys.

Dave, is Harmon Glass the place that was once located at 11th and Harmon in downtown Minneapolis? ' Seems I have vague memories from the '50s that Harmon Glass moved into the building vacated when Slawik DeSoto-Plymouth went out of business. ' Guess I'm dating myself.

Barc, I talked to a local glass shop about doing this and the guy thought that grinding or drilling would cause the glass to de-laminate sooner or later. But I might try your suggestion as I really have nothing to lose with this glass. Even if he's right, I suppose it could last years.

Allen
Allen Bachelder

And Tom, I forgot to ask my local shop if they can cut a new glass. I'll ask them about that also.

Thanks,
Allen
Allen Bachelder

I'm too young to know. That intersection has been all revitalized.

Harmon Glass is a national chain now, it also is affiliated with Glass Doctor in your neck of the woods. I guess the Harmon Glass I used in a auto strip mall is no longer there.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Allen, I have done it a few times to improve the fit of a windshield glass in a T car without any signs of delamination.
Barc Cunningham

Barc,

It will be next week before I can get to this, but you've tempted me. I'll try a small sanding drum on my Dremmel tool and go slowly. The worst that can happen is if it cracks and I'll have to replace it - which is my only other option anyway!

Dave,

I know what you mean about revitalization. The last time I was there, I saw intersections in SE Mpls that I used to travel through daily where I could not see a single recognizable landmark. And I lived there for 31 years...

Allen
Allen Bachelder

Today, I removed the top piece from the windscreen frame and used a sanding drum on my Dremmel. Despite the intimidating red glow - coming from either the drum or the glass, it was quite easy to grind the glass down enough to allow passage of the wiper motor shaft and two studs.

Now, I have the motor and a bunch of old mounting gaskets plus a metal piece shaped like a gasket and the plastic spacer, but I cannot figure out the mounting sequence. I was hoping to find an exploded diagram in one of the catalogs or in the shop manual, but no. Can somebody direct me to a site or other source where I can determine this?

Also, I re-examined the parts stash I got from the previous owner and regretfully see no wiper arms or bearings. The connector arm is there but the lever attaching it to the motor shaft is missing, and so are whatever pieces that would connect the arm to each of the wiper arms. Is all this hardware still available?

Thanks!
Allen
Allen Bachelder

Gee Allen, I'm begining to think lots of rainex is in order . LOL.
I just put a serious batch on my TF for the weekend trip to Denver in case the weather goes sour. TF mechanisism is different then the TD's so I'm afraid I'm no help, which isn't unusual.

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

Allen,

The plastic spacer attaches to the wiper motor with the threaded slotted nuts on the two mounting shafts. Then a cork gasket. The two mounting shafts and center driving shaft pass through the windscreen frame, the top of the wiper motor being more or less flush with the frame (i.e. don't install it upside down). Another approx. 1/8 inch cork gasket with cotton fiber around the center driving shaft, and then the decorative chrome piece are next. Finally, cork round gaskets go on the mounting shafts with decorative chrome cupped washers and the mounting nuts and locking nuts.

There are some pictures on my website.

The Moss catalogue shows the bearings and connecting bar. I don't know if the connecting bar comes with the drive link. It is shown in the picture. The motor mounting kit will include all the cork gaskets and chrome bits, but it is expensive.

good luck,
dave

Dave Braun

Dave,

By now, I should have thought to check your website before requesting any more information. Your website shows almost everything I need to know!

Thanks!
Allen
Allen Bachelder

This thread was discussed between 09/09/2008 and 12/09/2008

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