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MG TD TF 1500 - Winter
|I store my TD in an unheated barn. What, if anything, needs to be done to car to prepare it for winter?|
|One important thing, often missed, are mouse traps, and plenty of them......The TD makes a tempting nesting site and source of nourishment for the little rodents.....|
Make sure that the cooling system has a correct level of anti-freeze, and run it through the whole system, including the heater, if you have one....
If there is gas in the tank, and you don't want to drain it out, be sure and add a gas preservative, and run it through the whole system as well.
Keep an automatic battery tender on the battery, whether you remove the battery or leave it in the car.....
Disconnect the hot side of the battery if you do leave it in the car....Clean the terminals, and smear with dialectric grease.
Some folks put the car on jack stands, and get the tires off the ground, too.
|In gear, parking brake off. Go out and step on the brake pedal a couple times once a month.|
|Make sure there's no food of any sort in it. Use anything you can think of to keep the mice out--drier sheets, moth flakes, D'Conn--.|
|I suggest you take the seat bottoms and seat back out of the car and store them in the house. Some of your carpeting may be easily removed. You may want to bring this into the house, too.|
I put a couple of small, open bottles of peppermint oil in the car. Search the Internet for "peppermint oil" and "mice" and you will find a lot of reports that this is an effective mouse deterrent. GNC and other nutrition supplement stores often carry peppermint oil. The oil evaporates very slowly and will last for years.
|I built a completely sealed room in my barn for my TD. It is air tight, insect and vermin proof. |
The door is hinged at the top and when you drop it the air within the 'mini garage' prevents it from slamming. You simply hear a swoosh sound. I then brace the door shut by scotching it with a 2' section of white 2" pvc pipe.
The interior is treated with insecticide monthly and the barn is treated with bait stations for the mice every 90 days. It's a no critter zone. That environment may do me in eventually....considering life being inherent with dangers.
I keep a squirrel cage fan running continuously and it will be heated during the winter, keeping the area around 60 degrees Farenheit.
In a sense the mini garage is much like the car bubble sold by Moss. I built the mini garage for roughly the same price. It measures 7' 6" wide, 16' long, 5' 8" high. You have to be careful not to bang your noggin' when you walk out. I didn't count my labor......recognizing of course that you get what you pay for.
The things we do for our passions.
|R C Flowers|
|If your barn has a dirt floor or even a plain non-sealed concrete floor park it on a waterproof tarp or sheet of plastic. It would be surprising how much mositure is wicked up from the ground.|
|If you have power to the barn, A suggestion I have is a car bubble. There are a couple of different one's on the market now. I use the one Moss sells. This is a heavy plastic mat that you drive your car onto and then zip a clear plastic bubble around the car. It is powered by a 6 inch 120v fan (kind of like a large computer case fan)|
The fan inflates the bubble and keeps it inflated. No critters get in, and the circulating are keeps the interior dry. I store mine in a unheated garage and even in our Wisconsin winters, I do not get condensation inside the bubble.
Newer ones I have seen allow you to blow it up and drive in, then zip up an end flap. These use air filled tubes to give it its shape.
I also put the car on jack stands with the front stands under the A arm to approximate it sitting flat.
|I also think the bubble is the way to go. There are some models with a frame that means they are supported even when open.|
These would work great in a barn.
Makes it much easier to drive into and if you get large on ( I got one to fit my MK2 jag) you can even get some work done on the car.
|I've found that mouse traps baited with peanut butter are very effective. It's important to check them regularly to remove trapped victims and reset and re-bait the traps. I keep a supply of peanut butter in a sealed plastic food container nearby to facilitate keeping the traps baited.|
|Put the top up. The folded hood is a very attractive home for little creatures. Besides, it's good to stretch it out once in a while. Bud|
|Thanks all. Is it wise to periodically take it for a ride?|
|Lazarus gets out at least once a month year 'round. Criteria is: T>40F, roads dry, sunshine. I fudge them a bit to do a New Years Day run. Bud|
|Unheated barn,eh.Hmm,in Connecticut where I should think it gets much colder there than even here in Wales. So anti-freeze is vital, of course.I have put my MGF away in an unheated garage 1Oct -IApril for the last 14 years and agree with all that's said except that I completely take tha battery out and top up the charge each month.Plus,either press the clutch once a month or lean a house brick against the pedal( to obviate any chance of the clutch plates sticking/rusting together,especially in an old car).I like to roll the car back anf forth a bit to avoid any chance of the tyres " flatting". I don't start the car at all and wouldn't worry too much about the fuel.Just put in fresh at the end of winter( unless you have truly awful petrol over there-which I doubt).Ilike to " do" something every month if only to have a look at it like cleaning the leather, then feed the leather,vacuum the hood which is kept up to retain it's tight shape,check underneath in case any leaks have materialised,simple rather silly things really but it let's it know it isn't forgotten. Are we all nuts?|
|My mini garage is 18" off the ground, the floor joists being supported by pressure treated 6" x 6" x 16' timbers. The walls and ceiling are insulated and there's plenty of circulation under the floor. Inside, it's air tight and very easy to heat. I think I could keep it well above freezing with a 100 watt light bulb. All joints and edges were caulked and rubber seals all the way around the door.|
|R C Flowers|
|Just saw this from Hagerty. Thought I would share.|
In our last newsletter , we asked readers for tips to keep mice out of their collector vehicles. Dozens responded with ideas ranging from D-Con and dryer sheets to sulfur and steel wool. If youre putting your car away for the winter, keep reading for ways to keep those small, unwanted guests out of your prized possession this winter.
1. Dryer sheets
I have had a 1966 Ford Fairlane 500 XL for 18 years, and I also have an acre in the country, so we see our share of mice. The best thing I've used is dryer sheets. Just go to the Dollar Store and buy a box. They don't have to be expensive. I just lay them all over the interior, under the hood, in the trunk, on top of the tires even in the exhaust pipe. Then, in the spring, gather them all up and toss them. Not only will there be no mice, the car will smell like it just came out of the dryer. Works great for me!
Try Bounce fabric softener dryer sheets. Mice dont like the smell, but youll like it better than moth balls. Use them in several places in the car.
One of the best things to deter rodents is to put multiple sheets of a fabric softener inside the car (Bounce is excellent!). There is a very low odor associated with the smell after taking the car out of storage, yet rodents hate this item!!! I have a car that I put in storage each winter and also have a 30-foot camping trailer that I store. I have never had one problem since I was introduced to this idea years ago, and I had many problems with rodents before using this technique.
I've tried with a good amount of success using fabric softener sheets placed around the car and inside the vehicle. Bounce seems to work the best. I received this information from an upholstery shop that does a lot of work on vehicle interiors.
The best (and most effective) means of removing all rats and mice from virtually any place is to place D-Con around in areas accessible by the mice and rats, but too small to be accessible by dogs, cats, or any other pets you may have. You may (or may not) detect a slight odor as they are killed off, but I can assure you will never be bothered by them again. I'm 75 years old and have used D-Con all my life, and have yet to see any signs of mice or rats beyond the third or fourth day of setting out the D-Con. I have an antique car, and I use D-Con in it while it is in storage to guarantee against any damage to upholstery or insulation in the car.
The best killer is the Victor snap traps with the 1-inch square plastic yellow tongue. It's more sensitive than traditional snap traps with the small metal tongue. I prefer a small smear of peanut butter in a center hole. You don't want much; just enough to give off the scent. The one downside of these traps is that if they sit long enough without a mouse going for the bait, crickets (and some small bugs) can eat all the traces of peanut butter without setting off the traps because they are so light. A combination of fabric sheets, snap traps, and building inspection and maintenance will keep your classic rodent free.
I have five classic cars and believe me, I have tried everything to keep the mice away. But I keep going back to the old faithful mouse trap. You have to keep an eye on them, but they do work. I also have a commercial pest control company put out poison. So far (keeping my fingers crossed) I haven't had much trouble or damage from the varmints. Years ago I made the mistake of putting the trap inside the car. It was nearly impossible to get the smell out of the car! Don't make that mistake.
The ultimate prevention to mice invasion, or any other rodent invasion, is the good, old-fashioned mothball. By the first of summer the mothballs are gone. By opening up the car and taking a few rides, the smell is gone as well.
This is the second winter I've tried Bounce, in the car and under the hood. It worked OK last year, so hopefully it will continue to. But of course, there's that half box of mothballs spread around and under the car and in the far corners of the [old] garage, so it may be this combo that works. It sure keeps the chipmunks destructive monsters compared to mice out of the garage and from under the porch.
Garden stores sell granular or powdered pure sulphur. Mice, roaches and other vermin hate the smell. Cut an old pillowcase into 8" x 8" squares and put a spoonfull of sulphur in the center. Gather the ends and tie into a small pouch. Place these bags around areas that may have a mouse or bug problem.
6. Steel wool
In addition to the soap and mothballs, I put wads of steel wool inside the pipes on my modifed '48 Willys Jeepster.
7. Other tips: Tape, jacks, Tom Cat, lowered visors, no covers
Don't forget to put tape over the tail pipe opening and the air intake. A friend could tell you a story about tearing down an engine and finding a mouse carcass on top of a piston.
I maybe go a bit overboard, but I'd rather spend a few dollars and be safe than lots come spring. I put my car up on jackstands so only mice that can pole vault or jump really high can reach it. I also put lots of Bounce sheets inside and under the hood. I set about four or five mousetraps that I check every time the weather is warm enough to walk over to the garage where I keep it stored (its only a 50 ft. jaunt, but at 20 below it seems like a mile ). I also, since no pets can get into my garage, set out about six little caps of antifreeze. Most of these can be used year after year and so far have been very effective, or maybe I'm just lucky. Either way, when spring comes and everything is the way it was when I parked it, I'm happy.
I reproduce interiors of vehicles; a procedure I inform my customers is to purchase "Tom Cat" mice packets. These are sealed packets (6/ box). Do not open the packets but place in trunk, under seats on floor, on top of the air filter cover under the hood. If packets remain closed the bait will remain fresh, if broken it will indicate the presence of an intruder,(who will not remain within the vehicle but leave and search for water). Remove the broken packet and replace with a new sealed packet. The indication of an open packet will remind one to view the vehicle more often. Unfortunately there is no inexpensive means to totally prevent the appearance of rodents, short of obtaining a complete air tight trailer; but this process has worked to assist in keeping the unwanted guests from a restored vehicle. I also recommend that vehicles not be stored in old barns or garages that present means for rodents to have access to the interior of the building.
This is not a method to prevent mice from getting in, but rather an extra precaution in case they do get into the interior. Mice have been known to 'nest' behind the sun visor and cause damage to the visor and headliner. Always lower the visor to eliminate the chance for the critters to establish residence on them.
I learned not to cover the car because mice like dark areas to build their nests, usually out of the car's installation, hood blanket, seat cushioning material, etc. I live in Colorado and every fall mice and other critters look for a place to come in out of the cold. Anyway, I now leave my trunk and hood both open and no longer have a problem.
If you have a tip that isn't mentioned here, leave a comment below.
|As we have damp winters, about this time of year, as the dryer weather comes to an end, I've taken to wiping the chrome over with a thin smear of Waxoyl.|
It repels the moisture from condensation and can very easily be wiped off again in April, when the warmer weather returns.
I started doing this after the first winter, when I found that the rear bumper, particularly, had been affected by rust come the spring. Although it wasn't in great condition, at least this has stopped it getting any worse.
|Tom Bennett - 53TD 24232|
This thread was discussed between 26/09/2012 and 29/09/2012
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