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MG TD TF 1500 - wire connectors

I am about to start connecting up my instruments and dash components. Question to those with more experience. What type of connectors have folks found reliable? Crimp-on or solder? Which brand?

Also, my new (British Wiring) harness is all pulled and appears to have quite a bit of extra harness for the head lights and front fender lights. I am perfectly willing to shorten it; however, I was wondering if the extra may indicate I have routed the harness incorrectly. Ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Dave
52TD
mgaviator

Dave,

I ordered my bullet connectors from British Wiring. They are of the solder type, and I found it quite easy to slip them over resined wires, wick the pure solder in, and trim off the excess.

The harness runs to the clip on the LHS cowl support a-frame, and then along the chassis to the point where the wing has a pass through for the wires. From there it goes along the steering rack to the other wing. I hope this makes sense. Every harness I've seen from British Wiring seems to be adequately proportioned for the routing involved.

warm regards,
dave
Dave Braun

Dave,
I prefer the round ball solder tips (162-200) together with the correct wire connectors (162-000) offered from MOSS motors. They works fine for me. Additionaly, if installed for example under the wing (Fender)for the parking lamp, I wound some layers of black insulation tape around the coupling and paint it with fuid insulation tape(?) from wal-mart.
Yes, I had the same trouble that the harness for the head lights is to long, but there is plenty of space inside the lamp housing. I do not shorten it.
Good luck
Guenter
GK Guenter

Dave,

I bought my crimp bullet connectors along with their crimping tool from British Wiring years ago and I'm very happy with the results.

David....
David Honness

I just recently installed my harness from British Wiring and also found the headlamp wires too long, as well as the side lamp wires. I put the extra headlamp wire inside the buckets. The sidelamp wire is temporarily coiled up under the fender. I plan on shortening it an a rainy day.

Larry Ayres

I've long considered the crimp-on bullet connectors, as I really, really stink at soldering :-) However, I have a bunch of solder type bullet connectors on hand, and would love a layman's explanation of how to solder the connectors to the bare wire ends. Be gentle :-)

Cheers

Larry
Larry Karpman

Larry!

Another thing we have in common, as I really, really stink at soldering too! But here is what I do, and then others more adept can correct me.

First get yourself the following: (most is available at Radio Shack)
A tackle box to keep all this stuff in and together with "electrical" on the side in marker.
A tub of non-spill paste Rosin Soldering Flux to help the solder flow and drive out oxygen.
A suction bulb for cleaning off hot solder for repairing bad solder and doing things over.
Wire strippers for baring wire.
Wire snips to clean off the end of the wire at various points in the process.
Lead-free silver bearing solder (.062 dia works for me).
60/40 Silver/Lead solder with rosin core for quick jobs.
Various sizes of Polyolefin Heat Shrink Tubing for covering splices and various connectors at the end of the wires.
Some 3M black tape for holding thigs down, and sometimes wrapping wire.
A simple Radio Shack No. 64-2071C soldering iron.
A wire tooth brush sized brush for cleaning the soldering tip.
Various clamps and clips for holding wires still.

Now, to do bullet connectors specifically:
Plug in your soldering iron.
Strip off 3/8 inch of cover to expose the copper strands and twist them together.
Dip the end of the copper strands into the rosin.
Slide the bullet connector on (in the correct direction) and allow the copper strands to poke through the end of the bullet about an eighth inch.
Clip the wire with the bullet to something solid, about two inches from the bullet connector, and where you won't start a fire.
Touch the end of your silver, non-rosin core solder to the soldering iron and see if it melts. When it does, it will provide some additional heat transver surface.
Touch the hot soldering iron to the bullet, just below the tip and count to five.
Dip the solder to the wire protruding from the hole and let the rosin 'wick' a bunch of solder into the bullet.
Allow to cool and then snip the tip of the bullet flat with the wire snips.
Pause once in a while to brush the tip of the soldering iron free of carbon.

That's all there is to it.

It is easy to make neat soldering jobs with crimping connectors too. Just crimp to a wire with rosin already on it, and then apply the heat and solder. If you have a bit of Polyolefin heat shrink tubing already in place, you can move it up to cover the connector joint, and heat it gently with a match to make a beautiful connection. A picture of just such a project is attached here. I will often cut away the plastic insulator before hand if I know I'm soldering the joint.

Jump in here any time anyone else (like Dave DuBois who truly among others, is an artist)

warmly,
dave



Dave Braun

Shoot Dave, if I can't follow those instructions, I'll turn in my car over to a worthy T lover and quit :-) I believe I have everything on your list, just that I don't always succeed with application :-)

I think the missing aspect for me was applying the rosin and letting the solder wick down into the nose of the connector. Thanks again!!

I still consider the use of the crimped connectors as a viable option for wires already installed, where soldering while in the car could be a disaster :-)

Cheers

Larry
Larry Karpman

This thread was discussed on 20/03/2008

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