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MG TD TF 1500 - Yet Another 'Bonnet Prop'

After reviewing all the great bonnet prop ideas on T-Talk I decided on a simple idea I saw last summer at a local car show. It's similar to others but made with limited materials I had on hand. Don't know how long it will last with this thin material, but it gets limited use anyway. Keeps the bonnet from touching other painted surfaces when open. Probably should spray it black eventually.
(Detailed "plans" and pictures available if anybody needs them.) Thought it might be useful for future archive reader.
Ed



efh Haskell

2nd pix:


efh Haskell

Here's one I saw at an autojumble in Holland in January. Very nicely done.
Regards
Declan


Declan Burns

The other end


Declan Burns

I'm still using the old string method
Declan


Declan Burns

Ed

Great idea, I am possibly a little too picky, I would attach some of that thin neoprene in the cradle to ensure no scratches to the side panel but certainly a good idea.

Brian
Brian Smith (1950 TD3376)

Brian, I agree. I already added something like that to the other side.
efh Haskell

Ed,
My first thought was dip it in "tool handle rubber dip".
David Sheward

Elegantly simple. Thanks for the ideas. Jud
J K Chapin

Ed, my hood prop is the same idea as you have except I made mine out of some extruded aluminum channel. I think I still have some if you need a couple of pieces. The advantage over sheet metal is that is is much stronnger and won't bemd. I drilled a hole in the forward end of the channel and used al little longer bolt than the original to secure the brace to the radiator. Painted black, you never even notice it is there until you park the hood.


Jim Merz

Guess mine is not original either.....
(I know it isn't, I lifted the idea from someone else)...

Edward


Edward Wesson 52TD

I made mine out of square steel tube...just removed one of the "sides" of the square tube to make the "U"...then removed a small part of two of the "sides" to leave a "tab" to drill the hole to mount to the forward bolt of the radiator steady location like efh. Regards, tom
tom peterson

Some good ideas on materials, thanks gents. I may play some more! My goal was to not let the pointed end of the bonnet make contact with the prop. I was afraid it would wear through the rubber tip. Anybody had that happen?
efh Haskell

Ditto on what Jim Merz wrote. I had to buy a 6 foot piece of aluminum channel and used about 6 inches. If anyone needs some pieces let me know.
Mort
Mort Resnicoff (50 TD-Mobius)

I'd like to see how some of these work when a real stiff breeze comes along,,,,

SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Steve
That has never been a problem with mine...But , then, never had it out in a 50 mph wind, either.
I used steel channel, and welded the tab on...
Since it supports to the side of the radiator support rod, it is more stable....
I also used a short strip of door protector , on the bare edge of the shell, to protect the painted edge of the bonnet. (See my image on my first post).
Edward
Edward Wesson 52TD

Steve, I only use mine in the garage so far. I agree about the wind.
efh Haskell

Never had a problem anytime I have the bonnet propped up. Regards, tom
tom peterson

I have finally gotten my TF restored, and wanted to take it to a car show sponsored by my local car club (BMCSNJ)
I reviewed the various articles/suggestions for a hood prop, and finally settled on my own idea; an adjustable curtain rod (approx. 1/4" in diameter; white; rubber caps on each end) the length of which can be adjusted simply by screwing/rotating the pieces until an acceptable length is reached. Price = $3.47 each. Works great when installed at the rear of the hood: one end at the rear; the other at the back of the side, near the firewall where it curves into the body. White color does not distract from the view, but it does stand out so that the prop is not accidentally knocked out.
RUSS YOUNG
D. R. Young

Here is what I used in making my bonnet holder. Comes from the hardware store and can be cut to any length desired. I will try to upload a photo showing it attached and in use as well as one prior to being cut into appropriate length.
Andy Cottingham
San Antonio, TX


AJC Cottingham

Here is photo of metal hardware used to make Bonnet holder.
Andy Cottingham


AJC Cottingham

Finally one showing bracket in use holding bonnet.
Andy Cottingham


AJC Cottingham

I bought a book with numerous tips for maintaining TD's. In it there are instructions on how to make a bonnet bracket.

I made a pair and found out that a lot of work can be saved by doing what Andy Cottingham and Jim Merz have done - take a 2" length of 1/2" aluminum channel, drill a 1/4" hole about 3/4" from one end, paint it black, install at the radiator stay brace and it's done. Works very nicely. Andy didn't even have to drill - he found one with holes.

I went to the trouble of cutting the "v" in the sides of the channel and bending it as indicated, only to find that the weight of the bonnet just straightens it out anyway!

Photo below of one bent - save the work and use a straight piece, it's what it will become anyway!

BobbyG



Bobby Galvez

For the "TF" crowd....these have worked for over a dozen years for me.
Every thing from Tractor Suppy about a $10 investment:
Fiberglass electric fence post (cut in half).
Spring (cut in half and mounted under bonnet latch bolt allows it to be stored behind bonnet latch.)
A bit of black shrink tube and "tool grip rubber" on tip.
Small bundgies and zip-ties to hold it in place. (rarely needed)
The "stays" are from Abingdon Spares...to keep the from "going over".
Tested w/60MPH winds. (First Car Show with them on!)


David Sheward

Brass for me. Thanks to John Progess for the design. Wonder what happened to him?


L E D LaVerne

Similar design idea on my TD.


L E D LaVerne

Like LaVerne, I wanted an option to hold the bonnet fully open, to make it easier to access the engine bay. The props are made from two salvaged collapsible aluminum tubes from a folding easel, two 1/2" copper street elbows, and a couple of plastic caps.

The collapsible poles could also come from broken or used hiking poles, a camera tripod, etc. The copper street-ell was crimped onto the aluminum tube. I didn't think of this before, but a plastic cap can be placed over the open end of the street-ell to provide additional protection to painted surfaces.

Don't use this prop where a breeze may catch the bonnet and lead to a disaster.

Larry


Larry Shoer

My bonnet supports are simply,
3/4" by 43" tall wood dowels with table rubber leg tips.
They fit an an angle in the back.
G D

picture
G D

prop in use picture


G D

Rob Woodfull's TD prop has been added to ones on Ttalk.
See http://www.ttalk.info/WoodfullProp.html. Bud
Bud Krueger

This thread was discussed between 12/02/2013 and 01/05/2013

MG TD TF 1500 index

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